03
Mar

Monkeys and Muay Thai

By: muttler

 

25/01/2019 – Phonm Penh (42km riding)

Today was a day of staying in Phnom Penh, but cycling in to the outer reaches to explore. Given I was a touch hungover, the sound of only a 40km day was not too bad!

 

 

We did a very short drive out of the city centre so we could collect our Cambodian bikes. This was a good move, as I’m not so sure the main roads out of the city centre would have been all that fun to ride on! We were all introduced to our new bikes (more mountain bikes) and then headed out of town.

Phnom Penh is certainly a city in transition. There is a lot of Chinese money coming in, and as a consequence, the amount of development is crazy… in many respects it is like Doha or somewhere, where new buildings are going up left, right and centre.

 

 

The roads heading out of the city were OK, but it got much more interesting in the countryside. What was crazy was to see a massive 60,000 seat stadium being built out in the middle of seemingly nowhere!

 

 

 

 

During the morning we made a temple stop… the first of many temples that would be in our Cambodian future. This was quite a cool complex, made up of lots of statues and some temples. The statues are interesting, as they are donated by people but with plaques to let people know as such. And there is apparently a direct correlation between the size of the statue and the donation. Wouldn’t want the smallest statue hey? 🙂

After this we did some more riding. The scenery was super different. Rather than lush and watery and green, we were now dry and dusty.

 

 

 

 

 

 

In the end we reached a small mountain stupor… with monkeys! Yay! I love a temple with monkeys. This was a short walk up a steep hill to arrive at the temple, with great surrounding views… a cracking place for photos and to soak in our new surrounds.

 

 

A late lunch at a local place followed, with our bus then picking us up to take us back to Phnom Penh. We had some time to shower and relax, and of course some of us decided to head out for coffee and beer!

Cham had a nice surprise for us. He had mentioned that he could possibly get us to see some Muay Thai boxing, and he got it sorted! So 5 of us who were keen loaded into tuk tuks, and made our way. On the way, Cham and I made a slight detour, as he had hooked me up with a Cambodian team football jersey. Sweet! Keisuke Honda would be proud 🙂

 

 

 

 

 

We got to the Muay Thai and were taken to our ringside seats. So close! A bout was already underway and I have to say, I’m not a great fan of boxing. But this was rad. Yes, it was a bit more full on than regular boxing, given the lack of big gloves and the addition of elbows and knees. But the general vibe seemed much more respectful between the combatants. The local musicians playing the soundtrack too were a nice addition!

We saw 5 matches in total, with the last 2 matches being particularly awesome. Some of decided to have some not too serious bets over 4 of the matches, and of course, by the end of it I had lost 7 beers in total. Never bet on Red is all I will say.

 

 

After the boxing came to an end, we jumped back in our tuk tuks and made our way to the night market for a late dinner. It was a choose what you want them to throw in the soup kind of deal, and I am not exactly sure what I ate, but it was a bit of alright. That would end our time in Phnom Penh before we would leave the next day.

03
Mar

Border Crossing

By: muttler

 

24/01/2019 – Chau Doc to Phnom Penh

No cycling today. Today was all about leaving Vietnam and making our way into Cambodia. That involved saying good bye to our Vietnam bikes, taking our bus to the border, walking over (and all the complicated things that happen in the middle) and then a bus on the other side to Phnom Penh.

The border crossing was a typical fairly straight forward, if slightly complicated land crossing, not unlike Central America. We got the Vietnam border, and of course a small fee would allow us to get over a bit more quickly! 2000 dong (so about 15 cents!) and we were out the other side. Overall the Vietnamese eVisa had been nice and straight forward and made travel super easy.

From there we were in no mans land of sorts! We had exited Vietnam but not yet gone into Cambodia. Cambodia was going to require a slightly more formal visa, but knew about it. They too have an eVisa system, but only going into the major air arrival locations. So this had to be done at the border. It was a bit more of a convoluted process, but it involved an actual in-the-passport visa, so understandable. But it was fairly straight forward all told. $30 USD for the visa (plus a couple of dollars to make it happen more quickly!) and I was officially in! There was also a medical check of sorts that cost 1 USD that was a dude pointing something at my arm and taking a reading (um, OK), but then was god to go.

From there it we got on our new bus to head to Phnom Penh. Instantly things felt different. The people, the landscape, and also the political environment seemed very different. Billboards were everywhere with the current president… something we would see many hundreds of times over the coming days.

 

 

 

On the way we stopped in at the main site for remembering the atrocities of the recent genocides, known as the Killing Fields. It is mind boggling to think how recent that history is. We had a guide who took us around the site. The centrepiece is a memorial filled with skulls, that is both haunting and confronting, but not sensationalist. Quite a heavy place to visit but worthwhile.

 

 

After our first Cambodian lunch (and Cambodian beer!) we headed into the city.

 

 

 

 

Before going to the hotel, we visited the other major memorial to the atrocities, the Genocide Museum. Here I struggled. Located at what was originally a school, but then a prison, this was filled with photos of victims, survivors, and those that were responsible. A few us had troubles, especially when speaking with survivors. A valuable place to visit and a reminder of how incredibly close we are to recent horrors.

It was time to start to soak up the city. We had a quick hotel check in and then some of us were off for some drinks. The rest of the group joined up and it was off to explore the city by Tuk Tuk. Cham showed us around, stopping at some of the main sites, including the main temple and palace.

 

 

 

 

 

 

We arrived at our restaurant for dinner, beside the water. It was a great place, with good food and very cheap drinks. Cham organised happy hour for us our entire time there 🙂

 

 

 

 

As a consequence, we had a LOT of drinks. $2.50 double strength mojitos! Cheap beer!

A few of us stayed until closing time, wandering back to our hotel a little drunk, but with time for a cheeky drink and some card games on the way back before ending our first night in Cambodia.