Category: travel

  • Sailing the Drake Lake

    our guiding spirit
    our guiding spirit

    22/12/2014

    We were told the previous night that our journey on Drake’s Passage was looking relatively calm. Woo hoo! I say relatively, as for an unseasoned sea traveller like me, there was still a lot of up and down. But it must have been soothing, as I had my best night sleep yet since leaving home. It was about 8 hours of almost unbroken sleep. Ahh! I needed that.

    a calm drake
    a calm drake

    We got up and mobile for our brekky, which again was quite extravagant. I could see myself settling in for muesli and toast within a couple of days of all this eating!

    Given today was a “sea day”, meaning we just had a whole day of open water ahead of us, the day was scheduled with lectures, zodiac briefings, and kayak setup. First up was a lecture on the sea birds we would be seeing in the next day or two. While this side of the wildlife doesn’t interest me nearly as much as what’s coming, it was good to be a bit more informed. And lo and behold just after the lecture, we were greeted with some wandering albatrosses flying along side the boat. The largest of the sea birds they have a 12 foot wing span. So graceful too. Hopefully I could get a good photo later on.

    At 11:30 was another lecture, this time by the ships resident photographer. She gave a great seminar, using her own spectacular photos to demonstrate both some key photographic principles, and also some tips for shooting in the Antarctic. Being photographer in resident on trips to Antarctica… not a bad job if you can get it hey?

    After lunch (looks like I am going to be eating a LOT on this trip), it was time to get suited up for our kayaks. no, not heading out yet, but getting all our gear together so when it arrives we would be good to go. A bit of Kate’s fear became alleviated as we got comfortable, and also as some of our kayak group asked some pretty fundamental questions that even we knew. Looks like we won’t be the least experienced!

    bring it on!
    bring it on!

    It was fun getting all suited up and got us super excited. Although getting in the gear is a bit of a chore, we totally knew why we had it all. The hot mud room where we would gear up made us sweat though… so much we would be looking forward to getting out into the Antarctic cold 🙂

    With no time to rest our brains, it was straight into another briefing, this time to understand our responsibilities in heading on to the Antarctic continent. Given it is such a pristine environment, everyone takes it very seriously in keeping it that way. While a lot of it was common sense, I guess in today’s day and age it needs to sadly be said.

    During this we also learned all about the zodiacs that would be taking most people out and about (and us just sometimes when we are not kayaking). Given we would be VERY close to almost freezing water, again it was all taken very seriously by the crew.

    There was only one more thing to sort out during the afternoon, and that was to get our boots to be wearing out and about on the ice. A quick second visit to the mud room had us all sorted. Phew! What a day of getting ready for our arrival, looking likely tomorrow given our smooth trip on the passage so far.

    Speaking of Drake, by all accounts our sailing has been very smooth thus far, and to me as a novice it certainly seemed so. Yeah, we had been bouncing round a bit, but no one really seemed to be getting too upset by it all. It was only around dinner time that we hit a rougher patch. Even then it seemed to only last an hour and we were back to normal. The staff were even calling it the “Drake Lake”.

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    There was a bit of a collective on the back deck doing some bird spotting so Kate and I joined them to check it all out. We were getting a little wet, but the collection of sea birds following us made getting a little damp worth it. We got to see a few different types of albatross which was most exciting, including one that is a bit more rarely seen. While not much of a bird guy, to see the albatross circling gracefully was a kick.

    After some pre-dinner G&T’s, and a bit of dinner, I headed out to the back of the ship to do some more bird watching. The rain had disappeared and it was all blue sky, so it was much more pleasant, and we still had the great bird life hanging about. I could have stayed out there for ages, but it was a bit on the chilly side, and it was time to settle into the bar and soak up some tunes by the ship musician (yep, the ship musician). How could I not when my red beanie prompted a Steve Zissou / David Bowie song in my honour?

    With the sun still up, but 10pm hitting, it was time for some rest. I could have stayed up a bit longer, but given things are only going to get more hectic from here on in, it was best to grab some rest while I could.

  • The Adventure Begins

    my ticket to the antarctic
    my ticket to the antarctic

    21/12/2014

    Before kicking off our big adventure, we had a free half day in Ushuaia. Being a Sunday, we were told that not much would be open, so rather than just kick around the town, we opted to explore the nearby national park, Tierra del Fuego.

    We joined the guided tour early in the morning and headed into the national park. This is in interesting place, as they say it is the only park that has the ocean meeting the mountains and meeting the woodlands. It certainly is dramatic, as we had the still snowcapped mountains meeting the water.

    public transport in ushuaia
    public transport in ushuaia

    Our first stop in the park was the start of an old railroad, that was originally built by convicts in the late 1800’s. Apparently the Argentinian government thought it best to send prisoners down to the southern tip of the country to establish it and hold on to it. Part of what they set up was a railroad to help with the foresting of the area, and while the railroad is not used anymore, the last 7km still exists as a tourist steam train into the national park. Kate was keen to ride, so we grabbed tickets and jumped on board.

    kate loves a steam train
    kate loves a steam train

    It was a slow ride as we made our way into the park. The scene was quite lovely with the mountains in the background. The evidence of the foresting was clear for all to see though, and it was remarked that it was a tree graveyard, with remnants still scattered about.

    We made a brief stop at a station along the way La Macarena, so we obviously couldn’t resist some appropriate action photos.

    i'm not the only one who does cheesy things
    i’m not the only one who does cheesy things

     

    say hi to my new friend
    say hi to my new friend

     

    our steam driven chariot
    our steam driven chariot

     

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    After an hour we made the end. It was a fun ride, and a nice way to spend the morning in a relaxed fashion.

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    From there we continued deeper into the park, stopping every now and then for short walks and photo opportunities. The park was quite lovely, and as mentioned the mountains made for an amazing backdrop. However, the foresting of the area meant that it wasn’t as picturesque in parts as I thought it may have been.

    blame the beavers
    blame the beavers

    But nonetheless, it was a great way to spend the morning. One thing I didn’t expect was to find out that there was a significant beaver population in the area, making dams in many of the rivers and streams about the park. They were an introduced species, brought in for their fur, however they weren’t really used for that back in the day and apparently they number in the millions. Sadly we didn’t see any beavers, but did see several of their homes, one large one in particular in one of the rivers.

    a long way from anywhere pt 1
    a long way from anywhere pt 1

     

    a long way from anywhere pt 2
    a long way from anywhere pt 2

    The visit took us until early afternoon, dropping us back in town for a quick bite to eat before needing to meet up with the G Adventures group to get our passenger cards that would be our most important item on the boat. The card that makes the Antarctica trip most official!

    our sturdy vessel
    our sturdy vessel

     

    i'm a pirate!
    i’m a pirate!

     

    home for the next 15 days
    home for the next 15 days

    After another hour of anticipation it was finally time to get on the boat and prepare for departure. It was getting super real by now and amazingly exciting. Just after 4pm Kate and I were on and settling into our cabin. I’m not sure why but the amenities on the boat were a bit fancier than I expected. I was expecting to rough it a little, but no, our cabin was nice and cozy, and the lounge and bar areas were super comfy. Even seeing the restaurant menu I saw I was going to be well looked after!

    say goodbye to ushuaia
    say goodbye to ushuaia

    On 5pm, we departed Ushuaia, with everyone out on deck to say goodbye to the mainland and begin our 2 week expedition. It would be about 6 hours in the Beagle Channel, before reaching Drake’s Passage proper, so some time with calm waters to get to know everything we needed to know about our boat and trip.

    be prepared
    be prepared

     

    aaaahhhhh!!!!
    aaaahhhhh!!!!

    First up was a safety briefing and drill. Armed with our lifejackets we ran through all the formalities, including being introduced to our meeting points and our lifeboat. We even got to go it which was very cool! Some didn’t want to jinx things, but Kate and I rushed in to get a feel for it. Touch wood it would be the only time we ever see the inside!

    After that was an introduction to all the crew and guides. I guess you would have to be an outgoing type to do this job, but everyone was so lovely and enthusiastic it made it impossible not to be beaming from ear to ear and what lay ahead.

    Suddenly it was time for dinner, with a delicious 3 course meal. Man, I’m not sure I will be able to handle eating so much food! Again, I wasn’t expecting such a fancy experience, but I guess when you are paying a significant amount for such a trip maybe that is what many people expect.

    ready for action
    ready for action

    It was an action packed night, as as soon as dinner was done, Kate and I went to grab our expedition parkas. Everyone was being given the same bright red heavy duty parka as part of the trip, so within half an hour the boat was a sea of red. A nice perk, although how to get it home?!

    Things were not done yet, with an initial briefing scheduled for the two dozen of us that had chosen to go on the optional kayaking adventures. Rather than take zodiacs out exploring each time, we have the option to jump in a sea kayak and explore. Everything we had read and who we had spoken to said it was a must, so we were super excited (if a little daunted) by the idea. The initial briefing was just to meet everyone and for Mark the kayak master (that’s what his badge said) to reiterate that while it would not be super challenging, it was to be taken seriously. Kate was getting a a little nervous, but I was sure a first trip out would quell those worries.

    the good ship g expedition
    the good ship g expedition

    Phew! What a crazy, busy, overwhelming day! We were now all done and could settle in for the evening. While Kate took the opportunity to wind down, I was still buzzed so wandered the ship some more. It seemed many had decided to head to their cabins to try and get some rest, but some of us wandered about.

    i'm on my way!
    i’m on my way!

    I was keen to see the end of the earth (well, Argentina) and the official entrance to Drake’s Passage. At about 11pm we saw our last land and only open water to the south. It has begun!

  • Internet Fail

    the fail penguin
    the fail penguin

    Hello again everyone!

    I was hoping to have a bunch of posts going up, but alas, who would have thought that Internet in the jungles at Iguazu Falls is not awesome?

    As you have worked out, we are back from Antarctica, and now at Iguazu Falls for a few days of relaxing and getting soaked before heading home. I had some great internet in Buenos Aires last night and I got a bunch of blog things done, but thought I would easily be able to finish it off here (as I stare out at Iguazu Falls themselves, yep), but alas it is not happening.

    So I will try! But maybe the posts will just have to be finished off when I get back home.

    Cross your fingers and stay tuned!

  • An Avalanche of Posts Coming

    you meet the coolest dudes here
    you meet the coolest dudes here

    Happy New Year everyone!!!

    Hope you are all doing well my dear readers. Well, Kate and I are back in Ushuaia after our EPIC/AMAZING/PERFECT trip to Antarctica. Our minds are truly blown.

    I am currently battling poor wi-fi, but I have been preparing all my daily posts to get up as soon as I can. Depending on how I go this arvo, I will try and get some up, but I promise I will get them up as soon as I can.

    Apologies in advance for a LOT of pictures 🙂

  • You Call This Summer?!

    USHUAIA!!!
    USHUAIA!!!

    I’m in the Southern Hemisphere aren’t I? Doesn’t that mean it’s summer? I’m not so sure!

    Anyway, let’s start at 9am this morning, where Kate and I said farewell to Buenos Aires for the time being, checking out of our hotel and making our way to the other BA airport, Jorge Newberry Aeroparque. This is a smaller domestic airport very close to the centre of the city. Our destination? The southern most city in the world, Ushuaia, the start point of our exciting journey to Antarctica.

    On arriving at Ushuaia Airport, we were greeted by a slight hiccup. We were there, but alas our bags were not. Oh dear. The one positive was that it was not just our bags about about 1/3 of the plane, and the friendly staff knew exactly what was going on and assured us that they would be delivered to our hotel around 9pm. Fingers crossed! But there was no point being upset as they seemed to be on top of it all.

    So we met a friendly G Adventures rep at the airport and she whisked quite a lot of us who were on the flight to our hotel in Ushuaia, the Hotel Albatros. It is hard not to think of Queenstown when coming into town. Snow capped mountains in the background, adventure town feel. They seem like sister cities.

    Oh, and you know how it is meant to be summer? Well, we arrived to a balmy 4 degrees celsius. And no, it wasn’t an out of the ordinary cold snap. That is about normal. That’s what you get for being so far south. Not having our luggage made keeping warm a little more challenging, but we had actually done some prep work, popping beanies and gloves in our carry on. Smart thinking!

    At the hotel, we met another G Adventures rep, who ran us through the plan for tomorrow… embarkation day! We have the morning to ourselves and have to be back by 2pm, so Kate and I decided to book ourselves on a half day visit to one of the nearby national parks.

    But that was about all the formalities for the evening, with our welcome packs detailing everything we needed to know. Too easy!

    hitting the streets
    hitting the streets

    So rather than hang about in the hotel waiting for our bags, we hit the streets to see the town. It was interesting that all the shops (tourist stores, or adventure wear) were open until 9pm, but closed tomorrow (being Sunday). Odd given so many people are in town wanting last minute supplies. Regardless, we had everything we needed, so just wandered.

    we're at the bottom of the earth alright
    we’re at the bottom of the earth alright

    The sights to see were simply the natural setting we had arrived to which was spectacular. Aside from the odd quaint church, it was all about the snowy peaks and boats waiting for us in the harbour.

    boats awaiting us
    boats awaiting us

    Most importantly though, it was also dinner time. Thanks to our Lonely Planet and Trip Advisor, we located what sounded like a good place to eat, Christopher’s Parilla and Cerveza. In we wandered and checked out the menu. More meat! And this time also local microbrew too. Nice choice!

    mmmm... more steak
    mmmm… more steak

    Of course we both went steak again. We went for different cuts this time, me choosing the skirt steak. And I chose wisely! Man, mine was delicious! I must say I enjoyed it a bit more than my Don Julio in some respects. Kate’s was delicious too. We also made the mistake again of ordering too much food, also tucking into salad and sweet potato.

    mmmm... beer sampler
    mmmm… beer sampler

    And being in a house of cerveza, I thought it most appropriate to sample their local beers rather than wine. Since I couldn’t decide, I tired them all of course!

    and the winner is...
    and the winner is…

    And the verdict? The beers were not quite up to the standard of the beef sadly. Not bad, but they have some work to do.

    With that, we were super full and thought it best to wander back to the hotel. And happily for us, our bags were just arriving at the same time! All’s well that ends well huh? Lucky, otherwise I was going to have to try and rustle up some more warm clothes from somewhere before we set sail.

    Oh, and this may be the last you hear of us for a couple of weeks. Wooooooooooo! Penguins!