16
Sep

A Brief, Nutty, Interlude

By: muttler
no idea what is going on

no idea what is going on

Proper updates coming, but as I put the TV on the other day after work I came across this children’s show. Kids shows can be crazy at the best of times, but when they’re in Finnish, they can be completely nuts! Out of shot is the fact they are both wearing shorts and have very human legs.

More updates very shortly!

 

07
Sep

Week One in Finland

By: muttler
what have i just seen?!

what have i just seen?!

Hei everyone!

Sorry I haven’t posted in a bit, but as I mentioned it is back to work now, and so while I am having fun, it is fun that is probably not as exciting to read about for you all (research papers! seminars! grant applications!), so I haven’t felt compelled to share. But since a week has passed now, and I have got up to a few things, it is time to fill you in.

this is where i am!

this is where i am!

I arrived in Helsinki a bit over a week ago, just in time to meet some of my new work colleagues before the weekend. I am based at Aalto University, which is about 20 minutes outside central Helsinki, in the suburb/city of Espoo. So close enough to Helsinki central for regular visits, but just out to be amongst some lovely scenery. I was greeted by my host Lauri and colleague Paivi on my arrival to the university. Lauri spent some time at Monash a couple of years ago, and we had crossed paths a couple of times since, so it was great to see him again, as well as Paivi who I had started some work with already in Sweden, and they immediately began making me feel at home… helping me check into my apartment at the uni and taking me out for dinner. It was a nice comforting way to kick off my Finnish month.

melting heads around espoo

melting heads around espoo

That weekend was spent doing… well not much actually. Even though I was in a new country, priority was pretty much resting after the craziness of the Turkey trip, and catching up on things like laundry and email (yes, both can be chores). I thought about heading into Helsinki, but after some sleeping in and just relaxing, I decided against it. Rather I did some wandering around Espoo, to see what as nearby. It seems that Sundays are very quiet, with very little open. But I did find some shops and even the odd melting head statue in my travels.

The week was spent focusing on work. I made an effort to try and get immersed back into the work, since I felt quite a bit had drifted by. I had to get back up to speed with my myriad projects that were on the go, and work out what work emails really had to be dealt with (not many!). While the holidays were amazing, it was good to get my head back into work things. So I spent my time working out at what stage I was at in about half a dozen different research papers I am writing, as well as a couple of grants, and some data visualisation. My list of projects and things to do is quite big, and that is without any new Aalto popping up, so I thought it best to get cracking!

my local walking track

my local walking track

My evenings were all pretty low key. I spent most going for a walk after work, to see what I could find about the campus and in the surrounds. Aalto Uni is located by the sea and so there are plenty of costal walking tracks. Not costal in the beach sense, but nice walking paths through the plentiful forest. So each night I would find a different path, or even start wandering to some of the nearby islands. On my travels I found a gallery that has an Edvard Munch exhibition opening in a week. Score!

In no time at all a working week had passed, so I had the weekend to enjoy and get to exploring proper. Lauri, hearing that I was doing quite a bit of walking after work, graciously planned a Saturday walk/hike in a nearby National Park. Given the weather was doing so well for the changing season (low 20’s and plenty of sunshine) it sounded like a great idea. So with a bus, then a train, then another bus, we were soon at Nuukiso National Park.

Nuuksio National Park

Nuuksio National Park

It seems Finland is blessed with many national parks, some of which are easily accessible from the city. Speaking with Lauri there is also a national culture of spending time in these parks, since they are all free for people to visit at anytime, and to camp virtually wherever they like. As such, on such a glorious Saturday, there were many people, especially families and teens, out hiking.

beautiful lakes

beautiful lakes

We started at the end of the bus line, quite a ways into the national park, and then spent the next few hours hiking about the trails and lakes within. The trails were great, wandering through birch trees, and surrounded by lakes.

mmm... deadly

mmm… deadly

 

this guy is no good to eat either

this guy is no good to eat either

 

or this one...

or this one…

 

or this one!

or this one!

One of the popular things for many out in the park was going mushroom hunting. Hopefully they were all well trained, as many were deadly poisonous, and I certainly wouldn’t trust myself, since most the pretty ones will kill you in no time at all! I couldn’t help snapping pics of some of the mushrooms I found.

In the end we covered about 12km which I was pretty happy with! Most was easy, but there was the odd steep stretch, so I felt like I had a fair workout and certainly slept well!

Today (Sunday) I decided to explore Helsinki for the first time. It seemed from some reading that Sunday is not the best day since much is actually closed (shopping wise), but as the museums were open, I thought it was another good way to spend a sunny autumn day.

is this an ark?

is this an ark?

When I got into town and out of the bus station I was greeted with this large, odd, wooden building. Turned out it was a non-denominational place of worship, designed to be a quiet refuge from the city. Nice! That was my first taste of the design culture that seems to permeate Helsinki.

the central station clock tower

the central station clock tower

On my wandering I came across the central train station. It seemed to be a grand building, but unfortunately much was behind scaffolding. The clock still towered over everything though.

ateneum gallery

ateneum gallery

The main reason for going in to Helsinki was to visit the final day of an exhibition at the Ateneum Art Museum, one celebrating the work of Tove Jansson. I did not know much of Tove, except that she is beloved by the whole country for the creation of her Moomin characters, my only entry point into her work. If not well known by Australians, I think a lot us would recognise her white, puffy Moomin characters from somewhere.

that's a big queue!

that’s a big queue!

On some advice, I arrived the the gallery early, but not early enough it seemed. About 15 minutes before opening I was way back in a queue of last minute exhibition goers. But the line moved reasonably quickly, and I was in the exhibition. Rather than focus just on her children’s book characters, she was also a very accomplished painter, something which, while known to Finnish people, had not been widely seen. So it seemed it was a delight for many to see this work. The exhibition was quite large and all encompassing, and was very cool to see. It was fascinating to see the juxtaposition of serious works, with political WW2 commentary, with children’s characters, and was well worth the visit.

statues in the park

statues in the park

I didn’t have any other definite plans of things to do. It was a day of exploring and getting to know Helsinki, given I have quite a few opportunities to explore. So I decided to head down toward Esplandi Park, and the surrounding shopping streets. This was quite pleasant, with the street cafes and high end stores. It had a bit of a Champs Elysees feel about it, although much less crowded and quite a bit shorter (and lacking an Arc de Triomphe and Louvre obviously).

This led me to the waterfront, where ferries to all kinds of places were docked. There I found the Kauppatori markets, filled with local handicrafts and food geared towards tourists. As a result everything was super expensive. Finland is expensive to start but the prices of the gifts were a bit prohibitive to going crazy. In the end I gave gift buying a miss for the time being, knowing I would be exploring much more over the coming month.

a big pan of reindeer

a big pan of reindeer

I did take some time out for some lunch though. Now you are all probably looking at the pic above and saying “what on earth did you eat Matt?!?!?”. It’s not that wacky actually. What you see is a collection of Reindeer meat and meatballs. As mentioned, a lot of the eating seemed geared to tourists, so reindeer was on all the menus, along with fish. I had eaten reindeer before, but when in Helsinki hey? So I had a plate of reindeer meatballs that were OK, if not spectacular.

the ferris wheel was not too impressive

the ferris wheel was not too impressive

While down on the water I found a few other things of interest. One was a small “Helsinki Eye” type ferris wheel, that I wasn’t sold on going on. Didn’t seem that big! And then there was…

this was though!

this was though!

This was a bit more interesting! A rather cheeky public art work. I think the title says it all…

a very apt title

a very apt title

I’m not sure what’s up with Europeans, but they sure like their peeing boy statues. I gotta admit though, this was pretty funny. All the kids seemed to love it.

what city am i in?

what city am i in?

By this time I was forming some initial impressions of Helsinki. It is an odd one in many respects. In some regards it is a very European city, with lots of cafes and people out enjoying the sun. But then it is also a bit sleepy. Even though it was a Sunday, I expected a bit more to be happening, but instead it was a bit quiet, with many shops outside the immediate centre closed, and the amount of people wandering not particularly huge. It did have a Melbourne feel though, with the seeming cafe culture as well as the strong focus on design and art culture. Also the amount of hipsters I saw might have added to that. As well as the very Melbourne colour scheme of the trams. Surely that can’t be a coincidence!

It was later in the afternoon by this time, and I was debating about what to do. It was a bit late to jump on a ferry to another island, so I just wandered some more and on my travels came across a movie theatre, which was just what my tired legs thought was a good find. They actually had a move I was keen to see playing in not too much time, Sin City 2, so I decided to just relax for a couple of hours and take in a film. Sadly, the film was OK if nothing great, but that was alright, as after a couple of days of a lot of exploring and walking, I was happy to chill out for a bit.

tasty pastry

tasty pastry

When that was done it was getting late in the day so time to jump on a bus back to the university. I wandered by Stockmann on my way to the bus station, which is a large department store. These stores are always good for food halls and this was no exception. not being too hungry I just got some bakery goods, one of which are these yummy Finnish pastry/pie like things, that are a rye bread with a rice filling. Mmmm…. tasty.

And with that it was on to a bus and back to the apartment, which brings me to now! Time enough to do a blog before bedtime and the working week. Probably won’t update for another week, but I am super excited for the coming weekend as I should have a visitor! Woo!

28
Aug

London Farewells

By: muttler
the monument at monument

the monument at monument

The last few days have been ones of travelling, breathers, and farewells. So I’ll wrap them all up in one post.

On Tuesday we made our way to Istanbul airport for our flight back to London. I read that Turkey is now the 6th most visited country with regards to tourism, and we certainly saw evidence of that around the country. It seems though they haven’t quite got their busy airport running smoothly quite yet. It wasn’t chaotic by any stretch, but it seemed that at every check point (baggage scan entering the airport, checking in, and going through security) lines moved painfully slow (even when there were very few people in line) and ended in free for alls. Luckily we gave ourselves plenty of time to get through and in the end we only had time for a little rest before boarding our flight.

We were delayed by almost an hour, it seemed due to some Turkish Airlines seating issues, but in the end off we went, and an uneventful flight got us to Gatwick. A train ride in to the city and we were checked in to our hotel in London, this time in the Monument area (just east of St Pauls). The monument in question is the monument to the great fire of London, and it greeted us each time we jumped on the tube (as you can see at the top).

We only had time to quickly drop things off before catching up with Kate’s aunt and uncle for a last visit. It was great to see them, and all going to plan will see them at the end of the year on the big day, so it was not as much sad to say farewell, but exciting to think we would see them again in a few months.

big cannons at the war rooms

big cannons at the war rooms

Wednesday was Kate’s only full day in London before she was to fly home. She had a plan, and that was to visit the newly reopened Imperial War Rooms. They had recently refurbished to open their new World War One display, so off we went. It was packed, and we had to get timed tickets to the WW1 exhibit. But that was OK, as the entire museum takes hours to properly check out.

While I didn’t think the WW2 exhibits were that great, the WW1 exhibit was incredible. After an hour and half we were getting fatigued, but both felt we could have spent more time in there. Well worth a visit.

The rest of the evening was spent deciding whether to catch a show. We tried to get cheap tickets for Book of Mormon through their nightly ballot, but alas we missed out. So we opted just for a lazy dinner and night in. An early morning greeted us, so it was all for the best.

So this morning (Wednesday) Kate and I wandered out to Heathrow to say our farewells for the moment. Kate was on her way back to Melbourne, and I would be heading to Helsinki tomorrow. We were bummed out, but it had been an amazing last 6-7 weeks in the UK and Turkey, so we couldn’t feel too down.

obey

obey

Kate went through the security doors and I was left to myself for the rest of the day. I was at a bit of a loss as to what to do. I decided to visit a couple of record stores to see what had been happening. I hadn’t visited Rough Trade for ages, so it was nice to go there again. I noticed a Shep Fairey mural nearby which was cool, and a very large Invader (although I’m not sure if it is a real Invader or not).

dali at the tate

dali at the tate

 

a gorgeous frampton at the tate

a gorgeous frampton at the tate

I also decided to wander the Tate Modern, since last time I was there I didn’t check out the permanent collection. It was mostly as I remembered it, so got to see some cool things, as well as some things that I will never understand.

That took me to dinner time, where I had a quick bite and retreated to the hotel. Time to pack and prepare for my Finland adventure.

28
Aug

Last Minute Bazaar

By: muttler
bazaar records

bazaar records

Sorry for the dead air everyone! It has been a few days of transition so the updates haven’t been forthcoming. But here is a couple of rapid fire ones to fill in the gaps.

Monday was our last day in Istanbul and Turkey. But like the previous day, we didn’t feel the need to achieve much. We were still fairly exhausted from our travels, so we just spent the day doing some more wandering and some last minute shopping.

Since it was closed the day before, we decided to spend more time exploring the Grand Bazaar. We really only spent an hour or so last time we visited, so we felt we really needed to dedicate a bit more time to it. Not that we really had anything particular we wanted to buy but we just wanted to see everything it had to offer.

During our wandering, we found basically more of the same… clothes, carpets, jewellery, lamps, hats… you name it, we found it. I even found a record store (of sorts)! But nothing besides a few small trinkets really jumped out at us. I wasn’t even tempted by the ubiquitous calls of “Sir! Interested in any genuine fake watches?”.

creepy little dudes

creepy little dudes

We also did a bit more wandering about the Spice Market and really just enjoying our last day in Istanbul. Nearby was the textiles area. Super creepy little mannequins were everywhere!

While we were exhausted, and overwhelmed by the number of people, we felt very fortunate to have visited Istanbul. Time to get a good nights sleep before heading back to London.

24
Aug

Cruisin’ the Bosphorous

By: muttler
views from the bosphorous

views from the bosphorous

Kate and I were both well and truly exhausted by the end of the tour. I don’t sleep that much at the best of times, but combined with lots of adventures, having a cold/flu like illness for the past week, I was feeling pretty exhausted. Kate was also lacking her fairly regular 10 hour sleep days, so we had a very lazy start to the day.

That was OK though, as we had already spent 3 full days in Istanbul, and we had ticked off the major things we wanted to do. So our last 2 days here would be pretty relaxed.

Today we decided to jump on a ferry ride on the Bosphorous for a couple of hours. Istanbul is a remarkable city in that it is split amongst a number of bits of land separated by a few bodies of water. The Bosphorous is one, that leads to the Black Sea. So we decided to have a relaxing trip up the Bosphorous, not quite to the end.

palace by the water

palace by the water

We just sat back and chilled out, seeing some more sites of Istanbul from the gentle ferry. There was no commentary or guide, so we had to rely on our trusty Lonely Planet to fill in some gaps.

mosque with a view

mosque with a view

On the way we was landmarks like Dolmabache Palace, Ciragan Palace, and a number of Mosques. Talk about a picturesque place to worship.

forts keeping an eye on things

forts keeping an eye on things

The turn around point was the Faith Bridge. It is flanked by two small forts, the Rumeli Hisari and the Andalou Hisari. I guess just in case there is any influx of dodgy folk again.

watch out bond!

watch out bond!

On the return we also saw a small lighthouse called Kiz Kulesi which according to our guidebook was in The World Is Not Enough. Seems Bond loves Istanbul.

By this time we pulled back into dock and our trip was up. Kate and I just decided to spend the next few hours wandering about. We made our way back through the nearby Spice Market, not too tempted by all the tasty treats that lie within. Maybe it was Turkish fatigue setting in, that ordinarily I would be all over that sweet Turkish Delight, but right now was happy just to soak up all the atmosphere and leave the delight for another day.

We also visited one of the small markets near the Blue Mosque for a peruse, where Kate found herself a very cool silver coffee pot that will look good in our place.

Otherwise that was the extent of our day. After such a hectic last couple of weeks, a low key day was nice. We met up with some of the remaining folk from our tour (Bec, Cathy and Leesa) for a nice dinner, and said goodbye to one more member of our tour. With one final day to spend in Istanbul, I imagine it would be the same tomorrow… another relaxed day to soak up our last time in Istanbul and Turkey.