16
Sep

Beery Good Times in Estonia

By: muttler
greetings from tallinn!

greetings from tallinn!

All Australians, whenever they go to Europe, lament at the ease of which our counterparts can freely visit new and different countries. We always think “man, if I lived here, I could just go anywhere for the weekend!”. The beauty about Helsinki, is there is somewhere cool you can easily visit just for the day, no airports required.

all aboard!

all aboard!

For our Sunday, I had planned to visit another country for the day with James. Tallinn in Estonia is just a 2 hour ferry ride away, so why not jump aboard and check another country off the list! That wasn’t the only reason to go however, by all accounts Tallinn was quite a cool city with a gorgeous old town. So with our tickets already acquired yesterday, we jumped on an early bus, back into Helsinki, to hop aboard our Eckeroline ferry to Tallinn.

yeah, it was pretty cold

yeah, it was pretty cold

The ferry was actually fairly quiet. I had heard stories of them being chock full of Finns ready to booze it up, however the way over seemed to be mostly families heading for a day out in Tallinn. It was too early to booze it up anyway, being only 9am, so we just found a comfy seat and relaxed on our way over, with a little bit of exploring of the boat to fill in time.

At about 11am we arrived in Tallinn, and made the short walk from the ferry terminal to the old town. On the way through the terminal, we had our passports out, ready to enter a new country. But even though we were advised we would need them, we simply walked through, not bothered by anyone, as we formally entered Estonia. Ah, to freely travel about Europe!

not a real hot air balloon...

not a real hot air balloon…

As we arrived on the ferry we thought we could see a hot air balloon rising above Tallinn. When we arrived on shore, it seemed it was more of a tourist ride… a hot air balloon type thing that just went up and down. It did seem pretty cool though.

heading into old town

heading into old town

In no time at all we were entering the gates of the Tallinn old town. It was quite a nice contract to go from city streets, to cobbled old roads with no traffic. I got the sense it was going to be quite cool to explore.

the start of MANY old buildings

the start of MANY old buildings

At this entrance, we were greeted by an old building that had now been transformed into the Estonian Maritime Museum. While the maritime part was not that big a drawcard, for the sake of 5 euro we thought we would head in to have a look and be able to see across the old town from the roof.

old school deep sea diving

old school deep sea diving

The museum was OK. It was packed full of random maritime things, however most details were in a few languages EXCLUDING English. So while we could look, we couldn’t follow everything. We could work out though that this guy was cool and a good photo op.

We also found out a bit about a local fish called Sprat (a herring like fish) that is apparently seasoned and tinned here in Tallinn (or so we could work out). They even had someone making small bits of bread and sprat for folks to try. And it was pretty tasty!

rooftop views

rooftop views

We made our way to the rooftop cafe. It was a bit early for a beer, so we just soaked up the views for a bit before moving on.

cool old buildings

cool old buildings

There really wasn’t a plan of any description. We were armed with a map of the city, but elected to wander. It seemed all roads led to the main town square. On our way we got to see a bunch of cool buildings in the old town. It certainly was quite a different way to spend the day than Helsinki. It seemed there was a cool building or church around every corner.

finding the town square

finding the town square

The town square was surrounded by cafes and bars like old town squares around the world. And they were all the more touristy (and expensive) of the ones that we passed on our travels. But it is all relative, with expensive on the town square still being much cheaper than anything in Helsinki. So we found one where we could grab a drink and bite to eat and chill for a bit.

mmm... russian dumplings

mmm… russian dumplings

This was a Russian restaurant, with an all Russian menu. We just went for some dumplings and beer to tide us over for the moment. We were just content to have a brew in our hand and soak up this new city.

the grand budapest!

the grand budapest!

Given we only had the day, we started wandering again. On the outskirts of the old town, we came across a government building. And if it didn’t remind me of the Grand Budapest Hotel! The pink colour and even the styling made it immediately come to mind. I didn’t see M. Gustav or Zero anywhere though.

cool russian church

cool russian church

Across from it was cool Russian style church. It was easily the most interesting one we saw all day, with the inside being quite ornate and decorated. Sadly no photos allowed sorry folks!

just near the finish line

just near the finish line

The rest of the day was continued wandering about town. It seemed it was the day of the Tallinn marathon as we encountered lots of runners and the crowded finish line. If only we knew we could have busted out a lazy half marathon or something! Well, probably not. But at least we have the convenient excuse of not knowing about it. Bummer!

home of the delicious ox sausages... mmm...

home of the delicious ox sausages… mmm…

Back at the main square we noticed the main town hall building actually housed a small restaurant. It seemed it specialised in cheap, local meals, with the 2 euro elk soup sign grabbing our attention. How could we resist! I opted to go a pint of their local brew (in a ceramic mug of course) and some ox sausages and pickles. And boy were the sausages tasty! Super delicious and made us sad we didn’t find the place earlier so we could try everything on the limited, but tasty looking, menu.

how could we not have a drink here!

how could we not have a drink here!

With some more sustenance, we kept walking and by late afternoon felt we had explored a lot of what Tallinn had to offer (which was a lot of charm). In our slow meandering back to the ferry terminal, we passed an intriguing looking bar, the Hell Hunt. With a name like that we had to visit!

james-o give is the thumbs up

james-o give is the thumbs up

What we found was a pretty cool place with their own brew on tap. In the end we tried four of their own beers, which were all pretty tasty. I could get used to this place!

With the beer in our belly, and a ferry to catch, we made out way back to the ferry. The trip home was much more as expected… full of Finns coming back with slabs and slabs of beer. in fact it seemed that most had a similar mode of carriage, with a small fold up trolley carrying their many slabs of booze. I have had no idea what the alcohol limit was, but it seemed like it was a lot. I counted one guy with 10 slabs of beer (let along whatever spirits he had in his bag).

The arrival back in Helsinki was just like Tallinn… no passport control. So it was quickly through and on a bus back to the apartment. A long day but an awesome one of exploring new countries… and their beers 🙂

16
Sep

James-o!

By: muttler
cool graves on suomenlinna

cool graves on suomenlinna

Hi everyone! Since this was an action-packed weekend, I will cover it in two posts unlike last week.

So as you may have worked out from one of my previous posts and the title, I welcomed a visitor to keep me company for a few days. James-o! Yep, James from back home was on the tail end of a Scandinavian holiday, and luckily for me decided to swing by Helsinki for a few days. Excitement!

He arrived late on Friday night, and so we really only did a bit of sitting around, catching up, before calling it a night. We had a bit planned for the weekend, so decided to hit the hay around the 1am mark.

The plan for Saturday, after a slow morning, was to introduce James to Helsinki and for us to explore some places I hadn’t been to. So late morning we jumped on the bus and made our way into the city centre. Our first stop was to pick up some tickets we needed for the next day (you can read about that in the next entry), and then meander through the city toward the main harbour.

dubious buskers

dubious buskers

We stopped by Stockmann to pick up some goodies for lunch and made our way to the harbour to the ferry terminal for our main destination. On our way we saw two fairly dodgy looking street performers. Darth Vader in particular was looking quite sad and portly, and they weren’t doing much but standing there as everyone ignored them. Time to get a better act guys!

welcome to suomenlinna

welcome to suomenlinna

So James and I arrived at the Market Square ferry terminal. Our destination was Suomenlinna, a group of four islands about 15 minutes from the main ferry terminal. These islands are known as the fortress islands, for the obvious reason that in the 1700’s a series of fortresses were built, supposedly to protect Helsinki from a potential Russian invasion. Well, they were right about one thing… the Russian’s did come in the early 1800’s, but the fortress didn’t really do much to stop it happening. So they then became part of the Russian empire.

entering the fortress

entering the fortress

Suomenlinna is now a Unesco World Heritage site, with many of the buildings still in tact and the islands dotted with canons. After about 15 minutes on the ferry, making our way past many of the small islands that surround Helsinki, we arrived at the main island. It was all then about wandering about, seeing the remaining fortress buildings and walls, and popping into the myriad cafes and shops (about 800 people live on the islands). So we wandered through the pink archway and started exploring.

a different kind of viking longboat

a different kind of viking longboat

It was quite lovely to wander, with many people out and about enjoying yet another amazing Helsinki day. We came across a cool memorial, complete with Nordic helmet and longboat.

riding the cannon

riding the cannon

As mentioned, the island is dotted with lots of cannons on the site, of all shapes and sizes. This one I couldn’t resist having some fun with.

maybe they were pointing the wrong way last time

maybe they were pointing the wrong way last time

It was great to wander, as the coast was glorious. It was kinda funny to see all the canons pointing out to a sea they clearly couldn’t defend.

climbing the fortress walls

climbing the fortress walls

There was also much of the fortress wall still surrounding the islands too. We were free to explore and clamber much of it, which was a bit surprising for a Unesco site. But it seemed that it was ll still in really good nick, so clearly they weren’t too worried about any damage.

more princely than kingly

more princely than kingly

At the opposite end from the main ferry terminal was the King’s Gate, a fairly modest entrance to the fortress furthest from Helsinki. There was also a small ferry terminal there, although not being summer, it wasn’t in use. Seems that outside of summer most of Helsinki slows down, even the tourist parts.

cheers!

cheers!

On our way back to the ferry, we couldn’t resist a beer. It was nice to sit in the sun (albeit a touch chilly) and enjoy a couple of Saku’s, which I assumed would be the first of many over the weekend.

senate square

senate square

So it was getting toward the end of the afternoon by the time we made our way back to the city centre. When we arrived we explored Helsinki some more, visiting Senate Square, home of the Government Palace, a pretty impressive building.

alexander ii just hanging out

alexander ii just hanging out

Standing out front was Emperor Alexander II. On this afternoon he seemed to be attracting more pigeons than tourists.

crazy lego!

crazy lego!

Helsinki, as I think I’ve mentioned, is the design capital of a very design-oriented area of the world. While we made our way back to the bus station, we came across an exhibition of sorts in a random shop. How did we notice it? Well, one of art pieces was a couple of very elaborate automated Lego creations. When you see some crazy lego in a window of course you have to go in and look!

thankfully i didn't encounter any nervous bears

thankfully i didn’t encounter any nervous bears

In the shopping centre that housed the exhibition, it seemed they have a bathroom clientele that was not just male and female, but bear as well. bears that really struggle to hold it in by the looks of it.

scrabble with finnish letters is dang hard!

scrabble with finnish letters is dang hard!

Rather than head straight back to my apartment, we decided to find a pub to enjoy another Finnish beer. We found one that had a nice array of board games, so decided to get a bit of Scrabble action. Neither of us noticed until we started that we may be up for a slightly different game, with the letters being tailored to the Finnish language. Made sense! That didn’t stop us, as we made our own rules and tried to play. The array of letters made it quite difficult to buts out great words, but we had a successful game nonetheless.

the victor!

the victor!

James was the quite convincing winner, however with a day of wandering in the glorious Scandinavian sun, with some Finnish beers under my belt, I was too worried. In fact, I was feeling pretty great.

 

16
Sep

A Brief, Nutty, Interlude

By: muttler
no idea what is going on

no idea what is going on

Proper updates coming, but as I put the TV on the other day after work I came across this children’s show. Kids shows can be crazy at the best of times, but when they’re in Finnish, they can be completely nuts! Out of shot is the fact they are both wearing shorts and have very human legs.

More updates very shortly!

 

07
Sep

Week One in Finland

By: muttler
what have i just seen?!

what have i just seen?!

Hei everyone!

Sorry I haven’t posted in a bit, but as I mentioned it is back to work now, and so while I am having fun, it is fun that is probably not as exciting to read about for you all (research papers! seminars! grant applications!), so I haven’t felt compelled to share. But since a week has passed now, and I have got up to a few things, it is time to fill you in.

this is where i am!

this is where i am!

I arrived in Helsinki a bit over a week ago, just in time to meet some of my new work colleagues before the weekend. I am based at Aalto University, which is about 20 minutes outside central Helsinki, in the suburb/city of Espoo. So close enough to Helsinki central for regular visits, but just out to be amongst some lovely scenery. I was greeted by my host Lauri and colleague Paivi on my arrival to the university. Lauri spent some time at Monash a couple of years ago, and we had crossed paths a couple of times since, so it was great to see him again, as well as Paivi who I had started some work with already in Sweden, and they immediately began making me feel at home… helping me check into my apartment at the uni and taking me out for dinner. It was a nice comforting way to kick off my Finnish month.

melting heads around espoo

melting heads around espoo

That weekend was spent doing… well not much actually. Even though I was in a new country, priority was pretty much resting after the craziness of the Turkey trip, and catching up on things like laundry and email (yes, both can be chores). I thought about heading into Helsinki, but after some sleeping in and just relaxing, I decided against it. Rather I did some wandering around Espoo, to see what as nearby. It seems that Sundays are very quiet, with very little open. But I did find some shops and even the odd melting head statue in my travels.

The week was spent focusing on work. I made an effort to try and get immersed back into the work, since I felt quite a bit had drifted by. I had to get back up to speed with my myriad projects that were on the go, and work out what work emails really had to be dealt with (not many!). While the holidays were amazing, it was good to get my head back into work things. So I spent my time working out at what stage I was at in about half a dozen different research papers I am writing, as well as a couple of grants, and some data visualisation. My list of projects and things to do is quite big, and that is without any new Aalto popping up, so I thought it best to get cracking!

my local walking track

my local walking track

My evenings were all pretty low key. I spent most going for a walk after work, to see what I could find about the campus and in the surrounds. Aalto Uni is located by the sea and so there are plenty of costal walking tracks. Not costal in the beach sense, but nice walking paths through the plentiful forest. So each night I would find a different path, or even start wandering to some of the nearby islands. On my travels I found a gallery that has an Edvard Munch exhibition opening in a week. Score!

In no time at all a working week had passed, so I had the weekend to enjoy and get to exploring proper. Lauri, hearing that I was doing quite a bit of walking after work, graciously planned a Saturday walk/hike in a nearby National Park. Given the weather was doing so well for the changing season (low 20’s and plenty of sunshine) it sounded like a great idea. So with a bus, then a train, then another bus, we were soon at Nuukiso National Park.

Nuuksio National Park

Nuuksio National Park

It seems Finland is blessed with many national parks, some of which are easily accessible from the city. Speaking with Lauri there is also a national culture of spending time in these parks, since they are all free for people to visit at anytime, and to camp virtually wherever they like. As such, on such a glorious Saturday, there were many people, especially families and teens, out hiking.

beautiful lakes

beautiful lakes

We started at the end of the bus line, quite a ways into the national park, and then spent the next few hours hiking about the trails and lakes within. The trails were great, wandering through birch trees, and surrounded by lakes.

mmm... deadly

mmm… deadly

 

this guy is no good to eat either

this guy is no good to eat either

 

or this one...

or this one…

 

or this one!

or this one!

One of the popular things for many out in the park was going mushroom hunting. Hopefully they were all well trained, as many were deadly poisonous, and I certainly wouldn’t trust myself, since most the pretty ones will kill you in no time at all! I couldn’t help snapping pics of some of the mushrooms I found.

In the end we covered about 12km which I was pretty happy with! Most was easy, but there was the odd steep stretch, so I felt like I had a fair workout and certainly slept well!

Today (Sunday) I decided to explore Helsinki for the first time. It seemed from some reading that Sunday is not the best day since much is actually closed (shopping wise), but as the museums were open, I thought it was another good way to spend a sunny autumn day.

is this an ark?

is this an ark?

When I got into town and out of the bus station I was greeted with this large, odd, wooden building. Turned out it was a non-denominational place of worship, designed to be a quiet refuge from the city. Nice! That was my first taste of the design culture that seems to permeate Helsinki.

the central station clock tower

the central station clock tower

On my wandering I came across the central train station. It seemed to be a grand building, but unfortunately much was behind scaffolding. The clock still towered over everything though.

ateneum gallery

ateneum gallery

The main reason for going in to Helsinki was to visit the final day of an exhibition at the Ateneum Art Museum, one celebrating the work of Tove Jansson. I did not know much of Tove, except that she is beloved by the whole country for the creation of her Moomin characters, my only entry point into her work. If not well known by Australians, I think a lot us would recognise her white, puffy Moomin characters from somewhere.

that's a big queue!

that’s a big queue!

On some advice, I arrived the the gallery early, but not early enough it seemed. About 15 minutes before opening I was way back in a queue of last minute exhibition goers. But the line moved reasonably quickly, and I was in the exhibition. Rather than focus just on her children’s book characters, she was also a very accomplished painter, something which, while known to Finnish people, had not been widely seen. So it seemed it was a delight for many to see this work. The exhibition was quite large and all encompassing, and was very cool to see. It was fascinating to see the juxtaposition of serious works, with political WW2 commentary, with children’s characters, and was well worth the visit.

statues in the park

statues in the park

I didn’t have any other definite plans of things to do. It was a day of exploring and getting to know Helsinki, given I have quite a few opportunities to explore. So I decided to head down toward Esplandi Park, and the surrounding shopping streets. This was quite pleasant, with the street cafes and high end stores. It had a bit of a Champs Elysees feel about it, although much less crowded and quite a bit shorter (and lacking an Arc de Triomphe and Louvre obviously).

This led me to the waterfront, where ferries to all kinds of places were docked. There I found the Kauppatori markets, filled with local handicrafts and food geared towards tourists. As a result everything was super expensive. Finland is expensive to start but the prices of the gifts were a bit prohibitive to going crazy. In the end I gave gift buying a miss for the time being, knowing I would be exploring much more over the coming month.

a big pan of reindeer

a big pan of reindeer

I did take some time out for some lunch though. Now you are all probably looking at the pic above and saying “what on earth did you eat Matt?!?!?”. It’s not that wacky actually. What you see is a collection of Reindeer meat and meatballs. As mentioned, a lot of the eating seemed geared to tourists, so reindeer was on all the menus, along with fish. I had eaten reindeer before, but when in Helsinki hey? So I had a plate of reindeer meatballs that were OK, if not spectacular.

the ferris wheel was not too impressive

the ferris wheel was not too impressive

While down on the water I found a few other things of interest. One was a small “Helsinki Eye” type ferris wheel, that I wasn’t sold on going on. Didn’t seem that big! And then there was…

this was though!

this was though!

This was a bit more interesting! A rather cheeky public art work. I think the title says it all…

a very apt title

a very apt title

I’m not sure what’s up with Europeans, but they sure like their peeing boy statues. I gotta admit though, this was pretty funny. All the kids seemed to love it.

what city am i in?

what city am i in?

By this time I was forming some initial impressions of Helsinki. It is an odd one in many respects. In some regards it is a very European city, with lots of cafes and people out enjoying the sun. But then it is also a bit sleepy. Even though it was a Sunday, I expected a bit more to be happening, but instead it was a bit quiet, with many shops outside the immediate centre closed, and the amount of people wandering not particularly huge. It did have a Melbourne feel though, with the seeming cafe culture as well as the strong focus on design and art culture. Also the amount of hipsters I saw might have added to that. As well as the very Melbourne colour scheme of the trams. Surely that can’t be a coincidence!

It was later in the afternoon by this time, and I was debating about what to do. It was a bit late to jump on a ferry to another island, so I just wandered some more and on my travels came across a movie theatre, which was just what my tired legs thought was a good find. They actually had a move I was keen to see playing in not too much time, Sin City 2, so I decided to just relax for a couple of hours and take in a film. Sadly, the film was OK if nothing great, but that was alright, as after a couple of days of a lot of exploring and walking, I was happy to chill out for a bit.

tasty pastry

tasty pastry

When that was done it was getting late in the day so time to jump on a bus back to the university. I wandered by Stockmann on my way to the bus station, which is a large department store. These stores are always good for food halls and this was no exception. not being too hungry I just got some bakery goods, one of which are these yummy Finnish pastry/pie like things, that are a rye bread with a rice filling. Mmmm…. tasty.

And with that it was on to a bus and back to the apartment, which brings me to now! Time enough to do a blog before bedtime and the working week. Probably won’t update for another week, but I am super excited for the coming weekend as I should have a visitor! Woo!

28
Aug

London Farewells

By: muttler
the monument at monument

the monument at monument

The last few days have been ones of travelling, breathers, and farewells. So I’ll wrap them all up in one post.

On Tuesday we made our way to Istanbul airport for our flight back to London. I read that Turkey is now the 6th most visited country with regards to tourism, and we certainly saw evidence of that around the country. It seems though they haven’t quite got their busy airport running smoothly quite yet. It wasn’t chaotic by any stretch, but it seemed that at every check point (baggage scan entering the airport, checking in, and going through security) lines moved painfully slow (even when there were very few people in line) and ended in free for alls. Luckily we gave ourselves plenty of time to get through and in the end we only had time for a little rest before boarding our flight.

We were delayed by almost an hour, it seemed due to some Turkish Airlines seating issues, but in the end off we went, and an uneventful flight got us to Gatwick. A train ride in to the city and we were checked in to our hotel in London, this time in the Monument area (just east of St Pauls). The monument in question is the monument to the great fire of London, and it greeted us each time we jumped on the tube (as you can see at the top).

We only had time to quickly drop things off before catching up with Kate’s aunt and uncle for a last visit. It was great to see them, and all going to plan will see them at the end of the year on the big day, so it was not as much sad to say farewell, but exciting to think we would see them again in a few months.

big cannons at the war rooms

big cannons at the war rooms

Wednesday was Kate’s only full day in London before she was to fly home. She had a plan, and that was to visit the newly reopened Imperial War Rooms. They had recently refurbished to open their new World War One display, so off we went. It was packed, and we had to get timed tickets to the WW1 exhibit. But that was OK, as the entire museum takes hours to properly check out.

While I didn’t think the WW2 exhibits were that great, the WW1 exhibit was incredible. After an hour and half we were getting fatigued, but both felt we could have spent more time in there. Well worth a visit.

The rest of the evening was spent deciding whether to catch a show. We tried to get cheap tickets for Book of Mormon through their nightly ballot, but alas we missed out. So we opted just for a lazy dinner and night in. An early morning greeted us, so it was all for the best.

So this morning (Wednesday) Kate and I wandered out to Heathrow to say our farewells for the moment. Kate was on her way back to Melbourne, and I would be heading to Helsinki tomorrow. We were bummed out, but it had been an amazing last 6-7 weeks in the UK and Turkey, so we couldn’t feel too down.

obey

obey

Kate went through the security doors and I was left to myself for the rest of the day. I was at a bit of a loss as to what to do. I decided to visit a couple of record stores to see what had been happening. I hadn’t visited Rough Trade for ages, so it was nice to go there again. I noticed a Shep Fairey mural nearby which was cool, and a very large Invader (although I’m not sure if it is a real Invader or not).

dali at the tate

dali at the tate

 

a gorgeous frampton at the tate

a gorgeous frampton at the tate

I also decided to wander the Tate Modern, since last time I was there I didn’t check out the permanent collection. It was mostly as I remembered it, so got to see some cool things, as well as some things that I will never understand.

That took me to dinner time, where I had a quick bite and retreated to the hotel. Time to pack and prepare for my Finland adventure.