Dude, it's 31 degrees and you dress me up in this?

If it seems like each day I have packed in quite a crazy amount of stuff, well, you’d be right. Kyoto (and its surrounds) was the main destination on my trip that I knew I had a lot to see and do. Temples, Castles, Parks, Bamboo, Monkeys… a lot to get through in 6 days.

Well, today being my last day, and having pretty much checked the main things off my list, I decided to just chill. Now by chill I still donned the walking boots and headed out, but today with no real plan. It was the first cloudless day in Kyoto… 31 degrees and beautifully sunny. I couldn’t waste it! So I just decided to head off and re-experience some parts, as well as see what I could find for Ella and Jake (of course).

So today’s post is just a bit of a ramble about Kyoto as a whole, as I depart for Hiroshima tomorrow morning.

Back at Kiyomizu-dera

You could no doubt tell that I have loved Kyoto. The mix of city and tradition is pretty amazing. I have avoided the “city” side of things for the most part… shopping and bar hopping hasn’t been too high on my list of things to do. But I figured I have Tokyo to look forward to, so why not soak up ancient Japan?

So much detail everywhere

As a first introduction to Japan, I think I made the ideal choice too. City enough to start dealing with public transport and crowds, but small enough not to be too overwhelming and all crazy-like.

A nice way to start too to experience that there is really not that much english around. Sure you never go too wrong in train stations and major places, but I have been surprised how many times ordering food and things like that, where it was all being polite and pointing at pictures. But hey, I would have been kinda disappointed if that wasn’t the case.

So yes, the people have been lovely. Whether it is in a shop, on the train, or on the street, I have not seen anything other than a warm welcome or respect. I am sure I will miss the cheerful sound of “Irrashaimase!” when I get home.

This one is for you Damien and Anna

I know I will come back to Kyoto one day. Being here in summer, I am dying to see what winter is like. I think I have seen one too many postcards of temples and castles covered in snow…

So my favourite places? In no particular order:

– Himeji Castle (probably my number 1)

– Arashiyama Bamboo forest

– Wandering Nara

– Squeezing through the “nostril” in Todaiji Temple

See you again Kyoto I’m sure. Speak to you all from Hiroshima (assuming I have free wi-fi there too).

… well, not an actual buddah, but a hole in a wooden column the same size as a buddah’s nostril. But more on that later.

A break with the usual today… I am not watching World Cup right now. I am taking a breather before going out to wander Kyoto some more tonight, after spending the day in Nara, and then spending the last hour in a public bath house. Yes, I got naked in front of old Japanese men. I will get to that but spare you details.

I'll have one of the deer in the window thanks

So Nara. Just when you think things can’t get better along comes the next day. And while Himeji Castle will take some beating, Todaiji Temple in Nara comes close.

The main part of my day was wandering the typical touristy path through the main sites of Nara. Lush parks, more temples and shrines, and deer. Lots of deer. Not afraid to sniff your pockets and chew on anything you might have. Locals sell deer biscuits but it is more fun to watch those people who buy them get mobbed by a dozen deer that get the whiff of the biscuits. While the signs tell you to be careful, I can’t imagine any of these deer would cause a fuss. They are cool though.

Just telling ya who's boss mate

The walk in parts was lined by hundreds of concrete lanterns that get lit each night. I can’t imagine how cool that must be.

Follow the lanterns

One of the awe inspiring sites was Nigatsu-do Hall, located on a hill overlooking Nara.

Nigatsu-do Hall

But really, it is just a teaser for arriving here…

Matt, meet Todaiji Temple

And I thought Himeji Castle was a big wooden structure. Holy crap, this was huge! The small people entering the base of the temple gives you an indication how big I am talking. Oh, and thanks to the lovely couple from Sydney for taking this snap.

Approaching Todaiji is pretty amazing. You are dwarfed by it as you walk up, and I am not sure I could stop smiling. Reaching the entrance you are greeted by this big dude…

Hey! Pleased to meet you! I'm Daibutsu.

Daibutsu, Japan’s largest bronze buddah says hi as you walk in, and he’s pretty freakin’ big. Big Banana? Lame. Big Pineapple? Yawn. Big bronze Buddah? Awesome.

So, we come to the nostril. In the temple is a hole in a wooden beam that is supposedly the size of Daibutsu’s nostril. Apparently those who can squeeze through the opening will be granted enlightenment in their next reincarnation. It is mainly a thing for kids given the size, but yes. You know what is coming. I had to give it a go, much to the amusement of kids in line. This picture gives a bit more perspective on the size…

Lucky Daibutsu was having a clear nose day

So my time came. The tough part was that it was more narrow than tall which made negotiating it quite difficult. I decided to lead with both arms stretched out, but made it difficult to pull myself through. Oh no, I thought, I won’t fit. But then I got my body at the right angle, found something to grab and slid my way though. Not particularly elegantly, but through. I am to be enlightened!

The highlight though was the applause I got from the kids. I gotta say that was very funny and very cool.

So I was done and wandered back to the train station. But then I spied it. Is that… a… Mos Burger? Glen, if you are reading this right now, you will be glad to know that I could not pass it up. So, knowing that there was an actual “mos burger” on the menu, that is what I asked for. And here you go.

A Mos (with one 's') Burger

I don’t really know what was on it, but it was pretty tasty. I was maybe a touch underwhelmed as several people had told me to seek out Mos Burger. But in many ways I think I would rather settle for a bowl of ramen. And sorry Glen, I couldn’t find any coasters?

My only bummer in Nara today was coming across a big tourist group… from Melbourne. A bunch of dudes from a Melbourne private school were being what you would expect a bunch of 16 year old guys in a foreign country to be like. I spoke to a couple of the teachers and they seemed cool. And maybe it was more the contrast between boisterous tourist and respectful locals that made them appear so annoying. But for me it makes you check that your manners are the equal of your hosts.

Anyway, getting back to the hostel I decided that tonight would be a good night for a stroll back in Gion. So what to do? Well, the time had come to try public bathing. Unfortunately no Onsen’s nearby (hot springs) just regular Sento’s (public baths with super hot water). But it was just across the street, and I was physically tired, so in I went. I can’t say my etiquette was all that good… not deliberately… I just didn’t quite have the method right. But I gotta say once I popped the clothes away, washed up, then jumped in, I was pretty relaxed. Pretty, pretty, pretty, pretty, relaxed.

What helped I think was that before I went in I had one of these…

8% booze for 140 yen. Oh yeah.

The hot water and this made my brain slow right down to a halt. I just gave in and next thing I knew I had been in there like 45 minutes. The bath only had a couple of old dudes in it, so it wasn’t particularly intimidating… in fact it gave me the urge to seek out a real onsen when I can.

And this is where I leave you. Time to wander for some food and see Kyoto all lit up. Until tomorrow! All going to plan it will be stories of bamboo forests and monkey parks.

Himeji Castle

So it seems the “type up the blog while watching world cup” is becoming the norm. The rain coming in of an evening kinda contributes, but so does being buggered.

Anyway, I almost cried with happiness twice today. Today, as the picture above gives away, I jumped on the shinkansen to Himeji to visit the famous castle. This was easily one of my most anticipated destinations. I was a bit concerned heading there as I knew that it had just started undergoing a massive 4 year restoration that meant the main tower was off limits. And I knew that as part of that, the main tower was being completely enclosed in a temporary structure (if you don’t believe me, check this out).

But the first pang of absolute joy, and the catalyst for the almost tears was catching my first glimpse of the amazing main tower as I got out of the train station in Himeji. I can’t tell you just how mind-blowingly awesome it was. And that awesome increased exponentially as I approached the castle grounds.

Now I feel I should explain the blog title, the first part anyway. The cost for me to get into the castle was 400 yen (a bit lower than usual as the main tower was closed due to the renovations). 400 freakin’ yen. Do you know how much that is? Like 5 bucks. 5 dollars to visit one of the most impressive things IN THE WHOLE WORLD. It makes me question how anyone can charge anything for entry fees at anything in Australia. 30 bucks Melbourne Aquarium? You have to be kidding.

What will blow your mind even more is this. Meet Sadao-san…

Sadao-san

Sadao-san was my english speaking guide for the next couple of hours. MY guide. My VOLUNTEER guide. My 400 yen not only got me in to my samurai fueled image of heaven, but my own personal tour to boot. I can without any doubt say this was the best 5 dollars I have ever spent. Ever. But I digress again…

Sadao-san took me on an amazing tour of the complex. Because entry into the main tower was closed, he took me to all other kinds of nooks and crannys throughout the castle complex. I walked the board of the ancient maids quarters. But most awesomely I made my way up the windy interior paths to the foot of the main tower, all the way Sadao-san explaining what attackers would be thinking, and what the castle’s defenders would be doing. I was a ninja attacking the castle. I was Musashi, the ultimate samurai.

I know... I'm no Mifune

Thankfully, the scaffolding you see in the picture was not too intrusive, and my experience wasn’t really sullied too much. As Sadao-san quite rightly pointed out… all I have to do is come back in about 5 years.

Sadly, I waved goodbye to Sadao-san and the castle, and chilled out in nearby Koko-en garden to relax for a little bit.

Koko-en

While wandering the garden and the grounds of the castle, I had my first encounter with the “random person wanting to talk to you”. Thankfully it wasn’t a crazy old guy, but this nice lady taking her kids for a walk.

Everyone is just so darn nice!

She told me she was learning all about Himeji Castle and planned to take people around, so she wanted to know all about me and if I enjoyed the castle. I bumped into her again later in the day, so couldn’t resist the opportunity to get a photo. Even 2 year olds know how to pose for photos here.

The rest of my day was just wandering Himeji, taking the shinkansen back to Kyoto late in the afternoon, wandering a shopping mall I found on the other side of the train station (called Aeon Mall no less), ordering my first meal with no english involved whatsoever (all apologies and pointing and smiles), and finally crashing again.

But here are some random pictures from my travels that I know some of you will enjoy…

Firstly, as CC pointed out in her comment, Astro Boy does greet you outside Kyoto Station.

It's Mighty Atom!

Next, I found this advertised in Himeji. Unfortunately I was on my way to catch my train back to Kyoto, but dammit, I will find it and eat it (this one is for you Glen).

Everything is big in Himeji

I did eat another fish though, which Damien and Anna will appreciate. Not an ice cream, this one wasn’t great.

Gone fishing (part 2)

I didn’t find Bill Murray, but I found Leo. Still sporting that same stupid facial hair.

"Right side. And with intensity!"

But we all know who’s boss…

Who's the boss?

So, you may be asking? At the start of the post I said I almost cried twice with happiness? What was the second time? Well, I was in a supermarket in the shopping centre and found this. 1.5 litres of liquid gold. All for about 2 dollars.

Now THIS is a big-ass bottle of Calpis

Today I died and went to heaven.