09
Jul

Into the Blue (White?) Lagoon

By: muttler

No funny captions needed… I’m sure the picture speaks for itself

Hallo! Today has been a relaxing day in every sense of the word. So let’s get to it.

We had a lazy morning and checked out of our tour accommodation, into the hotel for our final night here in Reykjavik. Kinda sad to be thinking we were heading out tomorrow, but we are bound for London-town, so all is still magnificent in my neck of the woods.

We had done pretty much all of what we set out to do here in Reykjavik (and Iceland in general)… well all but one thing. We had heard mixed things about The Blue Lagoon, a hot springs complex just out of town. Some said too touristy, too expensive… but everyone seemed to say regardless of those things the place was pretty spectacular. So of course we had to do it!

The Blue Lagoon awaits

So off we set from Reykjavik, through the lava rock landscapes, to a complex in seemingly the middle of nowhere. The only give away was the plumes of steam ascending upward. On our arrival we were greeted with some sample of the blue waters awaiting within.

In my Hugh Hefner phase

In we went, and ponied up the not unsubstantial entry fee. With a quick detour through the change and shower rooms, we were greeted with a huge white-blue lagoon area. More white than blue really. But in I dipped my toe… oh yeah! My toe nearly melted… the water was a glorious 38 degrees or so. So in we both went.

Kate’s face says it all

Instantly we knew we weren’t going anywhere for the next few hours. We grabbed drinks from the bar (mmm… nice Skyr Smoothies) and relaxed in the glorious waters.

… and Kate clearly wasn’t going anywhere fast

The complex was full of other rancho-relaxo elements… steam rooms, waterfalls, and handy white mud to plaster ourselves in. Well, when in Rome huh?

And you thought the top picture was scary

And the pampering starts…

We also partook in some extra pampering courtesy of volcano scrubs and algae mud packs. It was hilarious to be wandering around the complex with every second person rocking a mud-packed face. Seems everyone was in the relaxing mood.

Kate takes a “Mother Theresa” time out

I kept on with the scary mud packs

A few hours disappeared too quickly and we headed back into the city. It was definitely worth it to visit… it was just what we needed after a hectic week of travelling around this glorious country.

But now time to get ourselves all sorted for the trip to olde London. On the way back to our hotel we passed Gyllti Kötturinn, or “The Golden Cat. Nothing exciting about it… just thought it was kind cool is all.

This one’s for Damien and Anna

So takk all for reading about our Icelandic adventures… see you in London!

08
Jul

Of Puffins and Men

By: muttler

Yes, I’m eating yet another hot dog

Today (Saturday) was our first day proper back in Reykjavik after our whirlwind 5 days around southern and western Iceland. Because we had been so go go go, we decided to take it relatively easy. From Reykjavik there is the option to do heaps of different activities, however one of the main ones we knew we had to do was get out there in the seas and do a spot of whale and puffin spotting.

But first we had a lazy morning, and got out to do a little shopping. While not my forte, Kate has been on fire, and some of it must have rubbed off as I found myself a kick-ass Icelandic jacket. Not a full on traditional one, but a woollen one that looks a bit Icelandic nonetheless.

All sorts of folks turn up for the famous hot dogs

Anyway, it was time to head to the boat to get out on the water. But oh dear… it was almost lunchtime and we didn’t really have time to eat much. What shall we have? Hot dogs! Ha ha… yep, I think I’m addicted.

See, I’m not the only one addicted to these hot dogs

Kate seemingly is too, as I believe it was her idea. As are all the bucks and hens groups that were in town (6 or 7 easily causing mayhem about Reykjavik).

All aboard!

With hot dogs in our respective bellies, we jumped on board the good ship Andrea.

More puffins!

First destination was Puffin Island, just out form Reykjavik, where we got to see hundreds of Puffins hanging out, swimming, and flying around.

Half the boat ride was me yelling at Kate “LOOK! ANOTHER PUFFIN! HA! LOOK AT THE LITTLE GUY!”

Man, I am in love with these little guys. They look so crazy when they fly, like they are flapping their wings to stop themselves dropping out of the sky. I can’t get enough Puffin watching.

Oh, and boring gulls were around too

With puffins ticked off, it was then out into the high seas to chase whales. All the boats that head out whale watching claim a 95% success rate, and today was one of those 95%. Not far out we spotted our first Minke Whale. Not super close, but close enough to get some shivers up the spine seeing the big guys.

Enough gulls… MORE PUFFINS!

We checked it out for a little but until it decided to not come up for air again, so off it was looking for more. What repeated was a cycle of spotting one, seeing a little action, and then the whale disappearing again. So while we spotted 4 or 5, we never got too close. It meant photos were pretty much impossible.

Out chasing Minkes

It was great to be on the water regardless of how much whale we saw, and 3 hours went quickly and we were back in port (although Kate might argue how quickly it went… the seas got VERY rough at one point).

Kate before the greenness came on

Back in town we did a quick bit more of a wander. Kate got some colour back in those cheeks… enough to enjoy a delicious nuttella crepe. Mmmmmm.

It didn’t take long for Kate’s stomach to settle… crepes are good for everything

We then settled back to our hotel room, before I had something on my agenda that only appeared a few days ago. I had heard of an Icelandic band called Of Monsters And Men, and had heard a handful of tracks. It seems as though they are becoming quite popular, and lucky us, the band had decided to say thanks to their Reykjavik fans with a free outdoor concert only 5 minutes walk from our digs! Oh yeah!

Everyone gets into the swing of things

So off I wandered down to the park and settled in for a few hours of Icelandic music. Of Monsters And Men wandered on stage about 8pm and proceeded to have everyone eating out of the palm of their hand.

The whole of Reykjavik turns up for the concert

I couldn’t understand a word of their banter, but the enthusiasm was infectious. The band was sweet and had a great energy on stage which made for a really fun evening. Plus it was great to see all kinds of folks out enjoying the concert.

Say hi to Of Monsters And Men

Rockin out Iceland style

Guitar poses are universal

So this was a big win! Popular Icelandic band, Saturday night, sun staying up… what more could I ask for?

08
Jul

Waterfalls, Glaciers, Puffins… The Day That Had It All

By: muttler

This is the life

And I thought Thursday was busy. Not sure it had anything on Friday. So let me start from the start shall I?

Kate thinks “Gee, this is a big waterfall!”

We left our digs in Skogar nice and early, and before running out of town stopped by yet another glorious waterfall only 100’s of metres from where we had stayed. This was a beauty too. More understated than the two from the previous day, but gorgeous in its size and simplicity. There is something just awesome about seeing that much water crashing down only metres away from you.

Matt thinks “What can I do that is stupid in front of this natural beauty?”

While it lacked the scale of Gullfoss, and the novelty of going behind like Seljalandsfoss, this was still absolutely gorgeous.

More waterfall self-portraits

From there, we set out in earnest on our action packed day. One of the best things about David our guide was his ability to throw something else into the itinerary on a whim. He had snuck a few things in, but he had a bit of an ace up his sleeve today. “Do you guys want to visit the glacier properly?” he asked. What kind of question is that?!

Behold the glacier

So off we went to visit the glacier known as Mýrdalsjökull. David was able to take us right to the base of it, but unable to go on it unfortunately due to safety concerns, which was fair enough.

Matt thinks “Aren’t glaciers meant to be white?!”

When we got there we were all amazed. Rather than a pristine white glacier, this was black and grey thanks to the nearby Eyjafjallajökull volcano, that was the source of all the shenanigans back in 2010. So it was quite incredible to see, the blackened icy landscape. Again, something like from another planet. Sadly, the glacier has been receding, so hopefully it is not a sign of more to come.

Let’s all head to the beach (yes there is a beach just next to these rolling hills)

It was back into the bus, with our next stop an amazing black sand beach, just out of the seaside town of Vik. This beach was incredible for a number of reasons. Firstly the basalt columns that lined the shore…

Kate says “Matt! Pretend you are a column!”

Matt says “Kate! Act like me being a lunatic!”

Then there is the dramatic scenery…

Kinda like the Great Ocean Road really

Next the black sand…

Just chilling out on the black sand

Beachside shenanigans

But most importantly… the Puffins! Yep, more of the little fellas. We took some relaxing time to chill out on this beach and I could have laid there for hours. We just sat down on the beach, listening to the waves crashing in, watching the little devils flying around and getting up to mischief.

It really was one of the best places to visit, but also being able to just take time out and soak it all in.

Welcome to the Dandy Puffin Hotel

We did a bit of a whistle stop for some coffee and cake in Vik. Vik is a quaint little town, with not too much to see. But we did pop in and visit the famous Vik Wool store, where I got myself another nice hand knitted beanie. My head is going to be toasty warm this winter back home. Oh, and there was a Puffin Hotel.

We were excited to find a chocolate bar we hadn’t tried here. Oh, and there was cool stuff about Volcanos.

From Vik we backtracked to the base of Eyjafjallajökull, where we visited a small visitors centre run by a local farming family.

The farmhouse with a dramatic backdrop

Their focus is on the impact of Eyjafjallajökull, and showed a short film about their experiences. Holy moly. The Icelandic volcano was one of those things back home that was a news story that seemed pretty bad, but probably couldn’t get a full appreciation for the enormity of it. To see their story was insane, to see the devastation it caused, covering everything in site with inches of ash, and melted glacial waters destroying roads everywhere. The footage in the film was amazing, both exhilarating and scary all at once.

You said there is a pool somewhere around here?

David had one last surprise visit up his sleeve for the day. Knowing how much we loved our other hot spring pool experience earlier, he invited us swimming again. This time, we parked the bus and proceeded to walk into a valley for 15 minutes. We came across the most basic of pool, secluded from almost everyone except for a handful of those in the know. In we jumped and oh boy, it was bliss. Beautiful warm water to soak in and let the busy day just melt away.

Soaking the day away

It was a similar experience to some hot springs in Japan in picturesque locations, and this one was right up there. Another experience where words are pointless, and I will just close my eyes and thinks of soaking in that warm water again.

Steaming pots of mud

With that done, we then hit the road back to Reykjavik. On the way we did a small stop at some hot mud fields, with pots of hot mud bubbling away. We couldn’t really see much as they had roped off the main area. Seems the area is getting a little unstable presently. Oh dear.

Bet you can’t find me!

Getting close to dinnertime we arrived back in Reykjavik, just 5 days after leaving. Seemed like both yesterday and forever ago.

To wind up the formal part of the tour, the 5 of us on the tour went out with David for one last dinner together to bring it to a close. Good times. VERY good times.

07
Jul

Water Shooting From The Ground, Water Falling From The Sky

By: muttler

We’re getting good at these self-portraits

Holy moly. This trip has been awesome fun and suitably inspiring up to this point, but really, today was the day.

Hey! I’m in Iceland!

We kicked off early from our lodgings and headed to Thingvellir, the old site of Iceland’s early parliament. Ho hum, I hear you say. In some respects, before I knew too much that’s what I was thinking. But oh boy, was I wrong.

The first of many times photos will not do something justice in this blog post

The site is actually a World Heritage area and is stunning. The area became site of parliament back in the mid-900’s (yes, 900’s, not 1900’s) as it was the convergence of a number of roads leading from all parts of Iceland. But I think it was so they could all kick back with some mead and soak in the amazing views.

The site is on a major fault line, and looking out over the valleys and estuaries, with mountains and glaciers in the background, it was jaw dropping. We got to spend quite a bit of time, wandering and soaking it all up.

Churches in Iceland are just the cutest

In our wandering we got to see more basalt columns, more small churches, and more tourist centres. That makes it sound like it was a bit ho hum, but really, it was all really gorgeous and a great start to the day.

Geyser Country

From there we jumped back in the bus and headed toward one of our more touristy destinations, but one I was really looking forward to… Geyser. From the name you should be able to guess what we were in for… one of the world’s most spectacular and regular geysers. The whole area was an amazing landscape of steaming holes, bubbling pots of water, and exploding geysers.

No photoshop filters required

Strokkur is the big bad boy that blows every 5 to 15 minutes. What it made for was some shenanigans and fun photos. We were also actually apparently quite lucky as due to some slightly higher than normal water temperatures we were getting some amazing geyser blows. They really were spectacular.

Thar she blows!

Kate fell for my “Quick! The geyser is blowing! Pose!” practical joke

Oh, but then it did go off…

YEAH! I’M IN ICELAND!

We had a wander around the rest of the park as well as visiting the gift shop. Not sure what you all think, but I reckon this beanie captured my inner Icelander.

I’ve grown the best beard since I have been here

From there it was a stop for lunch and onward to our next jaw dropping destination, and one right at the top of my list… Gullfoss waterfall. Now I haven’t really seen any truly significant waterfalls, so this just blew my mind. The sheer size, volume of water, and the roar were incredible.

Gullfoss in all her glory (note people for scale)

To top it all off it was just truly gorgeous to watch. You might think these photos have a bit of Photoshop action, but no. The sky really was that blue, quite a rarity for these parts apparently.

Yeah, so this waterfall is pretty impressive huh?

Kate is infinitely more sensible when posing in front of a waterfall

Just hanging out at Gullfoss

We had a bit of time to just soak it all up and get some awesome snaps, before heading off again.

Yep, we’re only 15 minutes from that waterfall

What was amazing was the change in landscape after only 15 minutes of driving. From lush green waterfall areas, to alien landscapes. That seems to be the story of Iceland.

More waterfalls!

We continued to head south towards Skogar and our lodgings for the night. On the way we stopped in at another epic waterfall, Seljalandsfoss. While not as dramatic as Gullfoss, this one afforded a unique opportunity… we could sneak behind it!

Sneaking around the back

Hey! We’re behind the waterfall!

That virtually brought the day to a close, with us trundling on to our evening stop at Skogar. On the way more dramatic scenery greeted us… a theme David our guide told us would continue until our final drive back to Reykjavik.
05
Jul

Puffin Watch (and also how to be a Viking)

By: muttler

Hanging out with Icelandic friends

Howdy all. Hope you are all well! Me, I’m buggered. It is close to midnight again and yes, the sun has still not gone down. And it has been a looong day. But let me backtrack.

Re-reading yesterday’s post I notice it was heavy on the photos and lighter on the stories. I think it was mostly because last night I was catching up with a couple of posts, but also because it was close to 1am, and I figured I should try and get some sleep. Hopefully I elaborate a little more in this one. Oh, and glad some of you enjoyed the whale!

King of Iceland

This morning we left our lodgings at Langaholt, and headed north toward the fishing village of Stykkisholmus, where a couple of hours in the Breidafjordur would be awaiting us. It was a bit of a drive, but like has been the case every day we would stop at random places to see sheer cliffs, craters, or somesuch. This time was no exception. However if you ask me where it was, sorry to say I am having trouble remembering the name of every 16-letter place (complete with umlauts) that we are stopping at.

Checking out Stykkisholmus

We arrived in Stykkisholmus and had a casual cuppa and explore before jumping on board our boat. It was a quaint town, in many respects much more what I expected of these small Icelandic towns… Scandinavian looking houses, small churches… the stereotypical Scandinavian village.

All aboard!

After a bit we jumped on and headed out into the fjord. This was a very wide fjord (much wider than others I have been in in Norway and NZ) and was littered with thousands of islands. Most importantly though, it was littered with PUFFINS!

Puffin!

Yes, we got to spy our first puffins. Kate was super quick on the camera, and proceeded to capture all our good photos of our feathered friends.

Puffin Paparazzi

Another puffin!

More puffins!

And did I say we saw puffins? Oh yeah. We were both stoked. We still intend to see more when we go out whale and puffin watching from Reykjavik, but this was a great start.

Oh, some other bird life (not puffins)

We also got to see a heap of other bird life during the chilly, but pleasant, boat ride. But really… I was in it for the puffins.

What’s this?

After a bit and announcement came over to head to the back of the boat. What greeted us was a sample of what they had dredged up from the sea floor. What could it be?

Lunch!

Yes! Lunch!

Mmmmmmm

Our boating hosts proceeded to open up what they could and let us dig in to some raw sea treats. Scallops and sea urchin roe were plentiful and I must say went down a treat. Mmmmm.

Poor starfish

Say hi to Nippers the Crab!

We also got to play with some crabs and starfish which was an unexpected treat.

This town loves their puffins (as do Kate and I quite clearly)

After a bit over 2 hours our trip came to an end, where we spent the next hour having lunch about Stykkisholmus and popping into a local arts and crafts store, where both Kate and I picked up some goodies. I finally got a nice hand-knitted authentic Icelandic beanie. My head will now be nice and toasty at the footy when I get back.

More statues of Leifr

From there we had a bit of driving to do to reach our next destination, Eiriksstadir, home of the famed Erik the Red and his son Leifr. While David our guide had prepared us a little, this wasn’t what I was expecting. I was thinking we were in for a museum visit, but what we had was a recreation of Erik’s home, almost exactly where it stood a 1000 years ago. The best part was that it wasn’t a dry museum visit, but story telling by our Icelandic friend at the top of this blog post. She was in character, and a complete character.

Erik’s Pad

Hanging out, drinking mead (can’t you tell how drunk I am?)

Sitting in the dark cabin, we proceeded to be told tales of Erik and Leifr, complete with dress ups. If it sounds hokey, it was a little. But it was also heaps of fun, and a great way to present the tales.

Deep in the crater

With tales of bloodshed and discovery under our belts, it was time to head south to climb another crater, this time Grabok. This one was quite different to the Eldborg crater of a couple of days ago. Parking at the base it was a quick hike to the top. I really dug this one as it had the feel of entering a lava field and really feeling inside the crater.

Helllllooooo Iceland!

Unlike Eldborg, Grabok had a gap in the side where the lava had blown out many many years ago. But it made for an amazing quick hike. In some ways I dug it more than the bigger Eldborg crater.

Believe it or not, this is a main road

All pooped from a big day of travelling, it was time to head to our final lodgings in the Thingvellir area. David indicated we were going to be going a bit cross country, and he was not wrong. Technically we were still on a road, but it was not much of a road. Gravel really. But it was amazing. We cut through the heart of southern Iceland, through desolate moon-like terrain, arriving in an amazing green rift-valley. Iceland is a country of contrasts, but no more than in the space of half an hour.

Sunshine pokes through

So we arrived quite late into tonights lodgings. I was going to pass typing this up tonight (it is now the stroke of midnight), but I thought I would get it out there while fresh in my mind. Tomorrow is another hectic day of Geysirs and Waterfalls. YES.