06
Aug

Getting Tattoo’ed

By: muttler
showtime!

showtime!

Today was another Fringe day, although one of a bit of a different experience. Rather than comedy or music, it was to be mostly about castles and cannons and bagpipes. Yep, it was off to the Royal Military Tattoo.

what time is it?

what time is it?

First up though it was a lazy start and a casual wander about Edinburgh. We did a bit of a pop in to the Portrait Gallery, which was chock full of royal portraiture as well as a good exhibition of WW1 portraits. Sadly though there was very little modern work on the walls. Maybe it had made way for the special exhibits, who knows.

After that it was a casual wander along the main shopping street, just for a bit of a look, but not really any shopping. Last thing we needed were things to be carting around for the next few weeks!

As you can see it was a bit of a day of recouping as we knew there would be many more fringe shows to squeeze in. One thing I knew I wanted to check out was an art space called Summerhall that was a bit of a walk away. There they had some work by street artists Faile and Bask, as well as a room full of Gary Baseman. So off we legged it and within about half an hour were in a rather cavernous building, with little art installations in every nook and cranny.

faile stencils

faile stencils

The first thing I found was a room of vestige board paintings by Faile that were not like their usual work. I’m not sure it was completely my thing, but it was interesting to see snippets of their more well known stencil work peeking through the chaos.

now this is an arcade

now this is an arcade

Their best work was in a shared space with Bask, called Deluxx Fluxx Arcade. Basically it was a collection of old school arcade and pinball machines, defaced by Faile and Bask, and were even complete with Faile designed computer games on them. They were all quite odd and random, but it was a bit of fun to be playing around with them, and also on the pinball machine.

faile pinball

faile pinball

 

faile arcade

faile arcade

 

oddball faile game

oddball faile game

 

random wall collage

random wall collage

In fact a cabinet like these would be awesome in my house! Not sure what Kate would say though…

baseman in the trees

baseman in the trees

It was then some more exploration around the building to find the Gary Baseman exhibit. Called Mythical Homeland, it was semi-autobiographical, and was set up amongst a small makeshift forest. It added to the intrigue of it all, and the work was quite cool, especially that done on the book pages.

mr baseman is hiding in here somewhere

mr baseman is hiding in here somewhere

Mr Baseman himself was also floating around, however, he was being kept busy with some hardcore fans, so I decided to leave him be.

We still had a couple of hours until the tattoo so it was time for some food. I had organised this to pass a pub that I had caught eye of their menu the previous day, and saw something I just had to try. Yep, of course it was the Haggis Balls in Beer Batter!

mmm...haggis balls

mmm…haggis balls

So in no time at all, we were seated and I was ordering a hearty plate of the haggis balls. The plate arrived and it looked delicious, with the haggis balls on top of a nice gravy and mash. So I broke one open and… delicious! Mmmm…. they were indeed tasty. You know I am not sure I know completely what is in haggis, but really, I don’t have to know, because it tastes great and that’s all that matters!

With the clouds looking ominous, we made our way back to Edinburgh Castle for the tattoo. With the stadium seating looking much more full than yesterday, we took our seats and waited for the festivities to start. Thankfully, the rain was keeping at bay, so we kept our fingers crossed that it would stay that way.

kate all excited

kate all excited

With a bit of warm up of the crowd by our emcee (“Anyone from… Australia here this evening?!”), two fighter jets flew overhead to kick things off.

some highland dancing to kick things off

some highland dancing to kick things off

And we were away! To be honest, this was not my choice of activity, but it is undeniable that the fighters flying overhead, the bagpipes starting, and the cannons going off all gave me goosebumps. As far as spectacle, this has it.

IMG_4606Now I haven’t watched an Edinburgh Tattoo in years. My dad watches them all the time, and I saw many on TV as a youngster, but had not seen one in recent years, so in some respects was not sure what to expect besides lots of bagpipes. What followed was much more international than I remembered, as after the very Scottish start we did a tour of the globe, with lots of performance by friendly nations, including our beloved Oz.

IMG_4600

 

IMG_4602

 

IMG_4614

 

IMG_4624

 

IMG_4620

The castle would be lit up in recognition of the performers which looked great. Best in show would have the be the Kiwis, wth both a strong Maori and Highland dancing contingent, and also the world’s only steel drum marching band… yep Trinidad and Tobago brought the reggae and disco (I heard some Boney M in there) to the castle. Good times.

scotland the brave

scotland the brave

 

it ends with a bang

it ends with a bang

But it is the Scottish that own the tattoo and with the full flight of bagpipes happening, it is pretty cool. So while I didn’t go intending to swept up by it all, in the end it is pretty hard not to. Kate still might have trouble popping some bagpipes in the car stereo though.

05
Aug

Scotland!

By: muttler
welcome to scotland!

welcome to scotland!

And like that we were in Scotland! We left Bamburgh late morning, and rather than do anything on the way, decided to head straight to Edinburgh. Fringe awaited! So we burned along the A1, making good time. But of course we stopped at the border for the obligatory we’re crossing the border” photo opportunity.

good times ahead in scotland

good times ahead in scotland

It was bit exciting, as I had not visited Edinburgh in about 15 years. Combined with the Fringe Festival, and it was good times ahead for the next few days. We dropped our car off, and then headed straight for our digs just quick enough to drop our gear off and get out into it.

fringe central at the royal mile

fringe central at the royal mile

When we got in to town we headed straight for the Royal Mile, home of the Fringe in a way. And man, was it crazy! People everywhere, performers everywhere, and we were not able to walk an inch without being given a dozen flyers. With 400 pages of Fringe guide, it is not surprising people have to do all kins of things to get you in the door!

edinburgh castle

edinburgh castle

Being a bit overwhelmed with choice, we decided to gather some info about things but then head to the Edinburgh Castle for a couple of hours to settle in to town. It was nice wandering the small city that lived within the castle. The views over the city are magic from up there too.

up above the city

up above the city

 

paying respects

paying respects

We made a point to pop into the war memorial, given the significance of the day (100 years since the start of WW1), although it seemed it was being taken over by BBC folk for something.

mmm... haggis crisps

mmm… haggis crisps

We stopped for a quick snack break, and what did I find? Haggis crisps! Of course I ate them.

thumbs up!

thumbs up!

They got a thumbs up. They were pretty tasty without being very distinctive. Before my trip to Edinburgh is out there will be some real haggis for sure.

attention!

attention!

 

entering the arena

entering the arena

In no time at all a few hours had passed, and we decided to get some food before comedy action. I did have time for some more cheesy photos though. As we left, the castle was also getting all prepared for the nights Military Tattoo (a post for a couple of days time).

denied the haggis!

denied the haggis!

 

wild boar burger

wild boar burger

We passed a pub which looked to be fine for dinner. There was an Edin-Burger on the menu with Haggis, so how could I not eat that! But sadly, they were out of haggis so I had to go with the wild boar burger. And how was it? It was not bad. A weird piggy-beefy taste to it. But tasty.

something happening everywhere you look

something happening everywhere you look

We had one show planned for the night already which we did online the night before. Knowing we would be lobbing into town with not much time to scout out the shows, we decided to go with one of my favourites from back home, Celia Pacquola, having missed her Melbourne show earlier in the year. We figured we would go with a familiar to start and then see where things took us for the rest of the festival. So it was to the Gilded Balloon for the show.

Celia was great as always. This show might have been her best, and it was a great one to start our Fringe with. Some nice little shout outs to some of us Australians, who she identified through a particular joke of hers. Seems us Aussies are hard to escape.

It was only a bit after 9, and the Gilded Balloon was a hotbed of comedy. So on the advice of a random leaflet handed to us as we arrived, we decided to check out another comedian, Tiff Stevenson. She is apparently a little bit known here, but we had no idea. In the end her show was a mixed bag. Some things were great, many others fell pretty flat. But given the show cost us 5 quid, who can complain? Fringe was already delivering some awesome.

05
Aug

Am I Back In Iceland?

By: muttler
puffins!

puffins!

Today was our second day on the Northumbrian coast, and we had a bit of a plan in mind. One that was just a little exciting… PUFFINS!

Those of you that have been avid readers of this blog will know that whilst in Iceland a couple of years ago, I became a tad obsessed with puffins. Well, all going to plan it was off to visit more. So off we jumped in the car, and headed to the nearby seaside village of Seahouses.

Seahouses is the closest point to the nearby Farne Islands, home to quite a bit of seabird life, but this time of year is Puffin breeding season, so the main island Inner Farne is usually teeming with the little rascals. Unfortunately we were at the tail end of the breeding season, and as they arrived on the earlier side this year, many had disappeared. But word was that there was still quite a few around, so win!

all aboard

all aboard

On it was to our trusty vessel Glad Tidings IV with a bunch of others out for a tour of the islands and the opportunity to jump off at Inner Farne. Some very choppy waters greeted us, but Kate’s stomach was a trooper and it was uneventful in the best way possible (not so for a couple of other passengers).

popping in to see the locals

popping in to see the locals

The islands have various small buildings on them, but none are inhabited as such. They were in days gone by by lighthouse keepers and the like, but these days not so much. Inner Farne has a dedicated group of rangers, but otherwise, it was a tour of the islands to see what we could see.

puffins!

puffins!

 

off to feed the family

off to feed the family

And we were in luck! Puffins! There were some small groups chilling out in the waters that we saw early on. It actually seemed that many were disappearing every minute, as you would see one of the cheeky birds zoom by with an eel or some fish in its beak.

just hanging out on the beach

just hanging out on the beach

As we were getting about the islands, some small groups of seals could be found hanging about too. Oh the life of a sea creature hey?

welcome to the farne islands

welcome to the farne islands

After getting about the islands for a bit, it was time to jump off the boat. We got to land on Inner Farne for about an hour to see what we could see.

this little guy was the best

this little guy was the best

Sadly, not many puffins were on land… it was all about looking up and seeing them zoom past, usually too quick for the camera. I did see this little fella just hanging about for a bit, and he was nice enough to pose (I am sure a puffin expert will see this blog and tell me he is a she).

not a puffin

not a puffin

 

not a puffin either

not a puffin either

As we explored the island, there was a bunch of other birdlife hanging about. My knowledge of anything non-puffin is a bit limited, so maybe I saw something rare? Who knows. But it was fun to see them all chilling out on the island with their little ones.

In no time at all it was back on the boat to head into shore. On the way we saw a few dolphins (or porpoise… it seems the jury is out) along side the boat. Unfortunately in all the pushing and shoving of people on the boat to get a glimpse, there was no cool photo. Doesn’t matter.

braving the causeway

braving the causeway

And with that we were back! It was only early afternoon, so we decided to head out on another close journey, one that we had originally planned for the next day. But the tides were favourable, so we decided to head off to Lindisfarne, or Holy Island as it is known. This island is accessible by a causeway that is governed by the tide, and as luck would have it, we had a change to get on and off the island with our car. So off we headed!

As we approached it turned out that it was not just any day we had decided to visit. Rather it was some special viking day, as the many youngsters (and many adults) in viking costume attested to as we drove in. Suddenly I was very confused if I was in England or Iceland again.

lindisfarne priory

lindisfarne priory

We had a few hours to explore the island, so it was off to see the main two features… the priory and the castle. First stop was the priory, were many of the ruins still stood. This was quite a famous religious location, but it seemed today was all about the vikings taking over, as the priory was the site for many costumed folk. I blame Lord of the Rings and Game of Thrones personally.

hedgehog!

hedgehog!

So we looked about the site and were also treated to some displays of historical reenactment. It was a bit to kitschy for me, so I went for a wander up the nearby hill to look over the island. On my way I came across this lovely fella hanging out on the side of the path. He was all a bit taken aback by the craziness too I think.

monument on the hill

monument on the hill

On the hill there were amazing views of the castle, nearby Bamburgh and out across Northumbria.

oh those crazy vikings

oh those crazy vikings

I also had a view of the crazy viking battle that was taking place in the priory. Oh those crazy role playing folk.

lindisfarne castle

lindisfarne castle

We had not too much time before we were to be stuck on the island, so we did a quick wander to the castle. We didn’t have time to head  right in, but to approach it was pretty amazing, all menacing there on the rock.

kate tries to take the caste home with her

kate tries to take the caste home with her

 

your castle is served!

your castle is served!

 

castle in the sky

castle in the sky

We did have time for some cheesy photos though. Of course we did you all say. There was time for some normal ones too though.

And with that, it was time to get off the island while we could and head back to Bamburgh. Our last night in England before heading to Scotland. Woo!

 

02
Aug

Old Castles and Newcastles

By: muttler
another rainy summers day

another rainy summers day

Next morning, nice and dry again, it was time to keep heading north on our way to Scotland. Given it was a few hundred miles away, we decided to spend a few days making our way. Kate had a plan, which was to make our way to Bamburgh, about 200 miles away for a couple of evenings, where we could checkout the Northumbrian coast and visit some historic places along the way.

no you're not seeing things... it is really that wonky

no you’re not seeing things… it is really that wonky

So after a big brekky it was in the car and away! We didn’t get far though, making a quick stop by the church in Chesterfield for a quick photo. The pic probably shows why we wanted to make a quick stop. Nope, that is not a weird photo illusion… the spire really is that wonky. It looks quite cool and it amazing that a church would allow something so distinctive to be built. But they did, and as a result we made a visit.

wind farms everywhere

wind farms everywhere

With photo done, it was on the M1 and heading north. There wasn’t much to report on the way. We got to see many of the wind farms that are dotted all over the UK. Why we haven’t gone with them at home I will never know.

spotting the angel of the north

spotting the angel of the north

On our travels we also made our way past the city of Newcastle. Although we didn’t go into the centre, we did see their main attraction from the motorway. The Angel of the North is a public art work that overlooks Newcastle and the A1 motorway. I only got a quick chance to snap a pic out the window. It is the second time I have seen it from the motorway, and yet still don’t feel compelled to get closer. I’m sure it is more impressive up close.

say hi to hogwarts

say hi to hogwarts

We kept on trucking, but not to Bamburgh, rather to our main destination, Alnwick Castle. About 1000 years old, Alnwick Castle is the second largest inhabited castle in the UK (behind Windsor Castle) and is in amazing condition. In fact much is still intact, and as a result is still a main residence for the Percy Family, as well as the site of many films and TV programs (one of which, apparently Downton Abbey) was being filmed when we visited. The biggest drawcard though would be as home of Hogwarts in the first two Harry Potter films.

not a bad place to live

not a bad place to live

So rather than just leave it as a castle to casually wander, it is full of tours and costumed characters. Thankfully not too much, so it still retains the dignity of a historic site. But we still took the opportunity to get to see all the spots where Harry and co got up to shenanigans.

local harry and hagrid

local harry and hagrid

The folk obviously didn’t waste the opportunity to have their own Harry Potter characters wandering around. In fact there was a not too horrible Harry and Hagrid entertaining the crowds.

a knight being knighted by a knight

a knight being knighted by a knight

The other concessions to the crowds was to have some some more entertaining things for the kids. One was the chance to dress up like knights/princesses/loons. Of course we took the opportunity to do so, what did you expect?

spooky!

spooky!

As well as this there was the Dragon’s Quest, slightly kitschy, slightly dodgy, “spooky” area. As we made our way through dark corridors and mirror halls, things would jump out at us. I will admit, that something got both Kate and I at different times, but it was a bit lame. Thankfully it was one of the few things to detract from the dignity of the castle. But of course it was still kinda fun.

visiting the locals

visiting the locals

The rain began to settle in, so we took that opportunity to finish up. A quick drive and we were in the seaside town of Bamburgh, our home for the next couple of nights. Even though it was pouring, we decided to wander to the nearby beach and Bamburgh Castle. Bamburgh Castle is also owned by the same family as Alnwick, but sadly we didn’t have a chance to pop in and say hello. Rather we just wandered about. It looked quite amazing and dramatic on the hill overlooking the sea.

mary poppins!

mary poppins!

It was a tad windy and rainy down on the beach. Hopefully I do get a chance to have a dip in the next couple of days!

02
Aug

Pomp and Circumstance

By: muttler
settling in for some rainy proms

settling in for some rainy proms

And with this, my time at the Uni of Warwick was sadly over.

Yep, 5 weeks had disappeared in the blink of an eye. It was a great time that was spent there and my hosts Jane and Sara were incredible. I feel like during the time I have made quite a bit of headway into my research, and have plenty to go on with, so all in all it was a very fruitful time.

But that’s work! With a few weeks of leave officially arriving before I get back to work, Kate and I left the uni late in the arvo, and started heading north. Our plan was to head to the town of Chesterfield, which was nearby to Chatsworth House, a historic stately home, where we had tickets for the last night of the Proms extravaganza.

The drive up was relatively painless… all motorway, although we were getting used to the endless roadworks and traffic by the end of it. But with plenty of time we had checked in to our hotel and were making our way to the venue. Sadly, this is when a real English summer decided to arrive.

what's a proms without pims?

what’s a proms without champagne and pims?

Everyone was saying that the hot summer was too good to be true, and as it turns out the night we really could have done with some nice weather, the clouds rolled in and the rains came. You see, the Proms were being held in the surrounding grounds… perfect for a pleasant summers evening, but not so much for a rainy one. So with rain jackets and brollies in check, we braved the rains and settled in on the grass, getting ready for the symphonic extravaganza.

picnic, england style

picnic, england style

The setting under normal circumstances would have been ideal. Historic homestead in the background, easy access to Pimms and champers, and the UK Symphonic Orchestra banging out the classics. Indeed everyone was taking it very seriously, with many parties bring out tables, chairs, food, and even the odd candelabra.

lots of pomp and circumstance

lots of pomp and circumstance

So what followed was 2.5 hours of orchestral classics. Even though it is not typically my thing, I knew virtually all the pieces. We even got some low brow classics like the main Star Wars theme. They must have known I was coming.

going out with a bang

going out with a bang

Even though it was still pouring with rain, we finished with some fireworks to celebrate the last night of the Proms. Me, I celebrated the wet, but fun, night out by getting dry.