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Category: travel

  • More rain, more deer, more okonomyaki

    Floating Torii (for now anyway)

    Just when I thought it couldn’t get any wetter, I woke up this morning in Hiroshima. Yesterday was pretty damp, but today the rain was relentless. Oh well, what are you going to do? Get out there of course!

    That's some low hanging cloud

    Today was my last day in this fleeting visit to Hiroshima, so it was off to visit Miyajima Island and it’s famed floating torii gate. A quick train ride to Miyajimaguchi station and an even quicker ferry ride, and I was on the island. With umbrella and rain jacket armed, off I went.

    First thing I guess is that the Torii isn’t floating as such. The tide helps play the illusion. Unfortunately for me high tide (and the true appearance of floating) was at 8 in the morning, which didn’t happen. So as I arrived the water was heading out, and the bottom was becoming clearly visible. But if that didn’t allow the perfect photo, it let me walk underneath it later when low tide was happening.

    Sorry, not today Mt Misen

    So I head out exploring the island before low tide arrived. My plan was originally to climb Mt  Misen, the tallest point on the island, and a good 1.5 hr hike. Alas, the persistent heavy rain meant that wasn’t going to happen. The low hanging clouds meant that it wasn’t going to be the greatest of views regardless (as a fellow hosteller confirmed to me later). So off I just wandered.

    More temples in treetops

    The island is made up of a number of small temples and shrines, that like Kyoto just pop up. But this time they are all buried in the woods of the island. Oh, and there is more deer. Just like Nara they just hang out and terrorise the visitors. Watching a poor lady have her scarf eaten was kinda funny I have to say (I wasn’t the only one watching and laughing).

    It got to the point where I had to escape from the rain. And what better thing to do than… more Okonomyaki! I had to enjoy another Hiroshima special variant. The experience was not as special as last night, but it was tasty nonetheless. Oh, Templar… this is how they make it:

    1. Make a REALLY thin circle of batter. I mean like thin crepe thin.

    2. Put a ton of cabbage on top. Last night had bean shoots too which today didn’t. Put some bacon on it (yep, bacon)

    3. Flip it over so the cabbage and bacon is on the grill. Squash, cook, squash, cook.

    4. Pop some noodles (udon or soba) on the grill in a circle and let cook. Pop the batter and cabbage pancake on top. Squash.

    5. Crack an egg and make it the same circle size as the pancake. Pop the batter, cabbage and noodle pancake on the egg (noodles against the egg). Squash some more

    6. Flip over, paste with the magic sauce, and serve up! Yum.

    After filling up on that goodness, the tide was a fair way out, so it was time to get wet some more and walk under the gate.

    And you thought it was floating…

    It is funny to think that 95% of photos of the torii are the magical floating photos, but that you requires perfect timing. If I want that I can buy a postcard… I got to walk underneath!

    Having done that it was time to head back. Even though it was raining I did the long walk back from the train station to the hostel, weaving my way through a number of shopping arcades. Nothing too odd has jumped out at me yet, although one toy store I found made me want to buy half the stuff.

    So farewell Hiroshima, I loved my visit even though you didn’t stop raining. You provided me with some spine-tingling moments as well as awesome okonmyaki and tasty kit kats. I will see if I can crack how to fold these paper cranes tonight and drop some off for me and Meagan and Ella and Jake before I head off tomorrow on an epic 5 1/2 hours of Train travel to Takayama. Speak to you next from the ancient town of sake 🙂

  • I am so full right now…

    That's a lot of cranes

    This morning I said goodbye to my home of the last 6 days and jumped on the Shinkansen again, this time to Hiroshima. I decided to get a fairly early start since 2 days is all I have planned to see Hiroshima as well as nearby Miyajima Island.

    Today’s weather was in stark contrast to yesterday. Whereas yesterday was all sunshine, today was all clouds and constant rain. Oh well. At least it was still warm. I arrived into Hiroshima Station and legged it to my hostel to be for the next 2 nights. A bit smaller than Kyoto, but charming nonetheless.

    All I did however was dump the backpack and head off into Hiroshima. The location of the hostel was literally 2 minues walk from the main reason people come to Hiroshima… the Peace Park and its associated sights. The rain only seemed to add to the atmosphere.

    Cenotaph

    A number of memorials exist to 6th August 1945. The cenotaph and its flame house the names of all those that have died due to the events of that day, both at the time and also long after due to the lingering effects.

    Children's Memorial

    But the most compelling memorial in the park is that dedicated to Sadako Saskai and the children who perised. Sadako passed away of lieukemia almost a decade after the bombing, however during her sickness she folded over 1000 paper cranes, blessing each one with a wish for peace. Knowing that, and seeing the thousands more cranes that are continually left in her memory is moving to say the least.

    A-Bomb Dome

    The A-Bomb Dome is the most visual reminder of the impact. The city refused the urge to tear down the remains of this building to leave it as a permanent reminder of the horrors of the day, but also an urge to not let it happen again.

    No witty comment here

    But all of this doesn’t prepare you for the Peace Memorial Museum. The first level explains in great detail the events leading up to the day, both from the Japanese and the Allied perspecitves. But as you work your way up to the next level of the museum you are well and truly confronted with the real horror. I can’t say I was really ready.

    Many photos show the impact of the day on not just the landscape but the people. But what kicks you in the guts are all the artifcats… burnt clothing, even some minor human remains. It is hard to say too much about it that can really indicate the sheer gravity of it all.

    Hypercenter… quite low key actually

    So it was time to get some fresh air again! Off it was to wander some more. In my wander just near the park I came across the hypercentre of the bomb… the exact location under where it detonated. Amazingly this is afforded just a small stone memorial, but it is still adorned with the paper cranes that permeate the park.

    A not quite as impressive castle really

    Heading around the main streets of Hiroshima, I came across the city castle. This was always going to be an odd one given that I assumed it would have been leveled in the blast (I was right). But in the essence of preserving history it was recreated. As such, while it is certainly pretty cool, it lacks the history (and scale of course) of something like Himeji.

    Which brings me to the title of the blog. I was hungry. Damn hungry. And I knew that while in Hiroshima I had to sample the local version of Okonomyaki. What’s the difference? Well, here in Hiroshima they have a layer of noodles as a base. So in one of the side streets near the hostel I chanced upon a very small place that looked homely and inviting so in I went. And man was it inviting!

    Seated at the grill I watched as my host cooked up a HUGE local-style okonomyaki. I have never seen so much cabbage, bean shoot, pork, onion and noodle packed together. And how was it? Well, I can’t understand why noodles aren’t the standard. It was great! It took all my eating prowess to get through it. Which is where things got funny. There were a handful of others in the restaurant/pub, including a couple of older guys I said hello to when I arrived. They seemed to have limited english but asked where I was from, so I told them and told them I was very happy to be here and I was having a great time.

    As I got close to the end of my okonomyaki the hostess asked if I liked oysters. It seemed as though Hiroshima has a specialty for oysters too and the two gentlemen wanted to treat me to a sample. Who was I to say no? So I then proceeded to enjoy half a dozen lightly coated and grilled oysters with bacon (Hiroshima style too I believe), which my new friends would not share. They wouldn’t even accept a drink in return. So by the end of this meal, I was in a divine place. So very very full.

    Bidding my host and new friends farewell, I arrive back at the hostel ready for some sleep. But not before I enjoy one of these…

    Mmmmm… citrus

    Mmmmm… orange. Yep, it tasted as you would expect it did. Tangy, orangy goodness. This was in a special “mail it” pack. It seems there are a few of these packs around Japan, so I have to keep my eyes peeled…

  • Farewell Kyoto

    Dude, it's 31 degrees and you dress me up in this?

    If it seems like each day I have packed in quite a crazy amount of stuff, well, you’d be right. Kyoto (and its surrounds) was the main destination on my trip that I knew I had a lot to see and do. Temples, Castles, Parks, Bamboo, Monkeys… a lot to get through in 6 days.

    Well, today being my last day, and having pretty much checked the main things off my list, I decided to just chill. Now by chill I still donned the walking boots and headed out, but today with no real plan. It was the first cloudless day in Kyoto… 31 degrees and beautifully sunny. I couldn’t waste it! So I just decided to head off and re-experience some parts, as well as see what I could find for Ella and Jake (of course).

    So today’s post is just a bit of a ramble about Kyoto as a whole, as I depart for Hiroshima tomorrow morning.

    Back at Kiyomizu-dera

    You could no doubt tell that I have loved Kyoto. The mix of city and tradition is pretty amazing. I have avoided the “city” side of things for the most part… shopping and bar hopping hasn’t been too high on my list of things to do. But I figured I have Tokyo to look forward to, so why not soak up ancient Japan?

    So much detail everywhere

    As a first introduction to Japan, I think I made the ideal choice too. City enough to start dealing with public transport and crowds, but small enough not to be too overwhelming and all crazy-like.

    A nice way to start too to experience that there is really not that much english around. Sure you never go too wrong in train stations and major places, but I have been surprised how many times ordering food and things like that, where it was all being polite and pointing at pictures. But hey, I would have been kinda disappointed if that wasn’t the case.

    So yes, the people have been lovely. Whether it is in a shop, on the train, or on the street, I have not seen anything other than a warm welcome or respect. I am sure I will miss the cheerful sound of “Irrashaimase!” when I get home.

    This one is for you Damien and Anna

    I know I will come back to Kyoto one day. Being here in summer, I am dying to see what winter is like. I think I have seen one too many postcards of temples and castles covered in snow…

    So my favourite places? In no particular order:

    – Himeji Castle (probably my number 1)

    – Arashiyama Bamboo forest

    – Wandering Nara

    – Squeezing through the “nostril” in Todaiji Temple

    See you again Kyoto I’m sure. Speak to you all from Hiroshima (assuming I have free wi-fi there too).

  • Bamboo, Monkeys, Bling and Booty

    It's Hypnotizing…

    Today was all about Bamboo, Monkeys, Bling, and as good fortune would have it, finally some Booty. I will leave you to ponder this.

    When I left you all last night I was about to go out wandering Kyoto. It was an interesting experience. I have spoken a little about the juxtaposition of old and new Kyoto. It is certainly on show at night too, although the new tends to overpower the old.

    Just in case you are under the impression that Kyoto is all this…

    Geisha District at Night. No Geisha's to be seen 🙁

    or this…

    Feeling hungry?

    then literally 5 minutes walk and you are here…

    Now this is the Japan everyone knows!

    It seems that half of Kyoto is out in downtown, eating and shopping. It wasn’t a surprise, but quite a contrast to the days vibe, at least where I have been anyway.

    Gion in particular seemed to be the “entertainment” district. And by “entertainment” I do mean to put it in quotes, if you know what I mean (nudge nudge wink wink). I finally was surrounded by drunken Japanese businessmen! I didn’t have the nerve however to wander into any place, having no idea what I would be in for. NOTHING was in english, so I will leave some mysteries in tact. While going into a place like this could be cool…

    Sure it's cute on the surface, but what lies underneath?

    … sorry lads, not prepared to take the punt.

    The rest of the night was more World Cup shenanigans with a bunch of folk from the hostel. We had a good array of nationalities last night and we were all happy to see South Africa win. Even the two French guys were resigned to the fact their team was crap.

    So, to today. A low key kinda day. I had two main goals: the Arashiyama area and Kinkakuji Temple. Arashiyama is on the outskirts of Kyoto and is famed for one main thing… the bamboo forest. While in the area I visited Tenryuji Temple, which while very cool, I felt I was getting a bit templed out. So a respectful but quick wander led me to what I was after…

    Wow, that's pretty green

    The bamboo forest is quite spectacular. Rather than being a massive forest, it is a relatively small patch with a nice short path through. It was pretty quiet while I was there, so I got to experience some gentle swaying bamboo to myself. Quite an experience actually.

    My other main focus of Arashiyama was a bit more of a hike. Literally. I only found out just before coming that Arashiyama has its very own Monkey Park. Oh, yeah. Monkeys! Iwatayama Monkey Park is at the top of the main hill overlooking Arashiyama and has about 200 wild monkeys roaming around up top. Hanging out with wild monkeys? Forget temples!

    But when I say the top, I mean the top. I wasn’t quite ready for the 20 min hike up, especially in some sweltering humidity. But it was monkeys. So up I went. What made feel some pangs of excitement was this…

    The First Rule of Monkey Club is…

    Rules! Don’t stare at the monkeys? Ah, they are wild monkeys indeed. While they were clearly used to people, apparently they could still switch in the blink of an eye.

    So on my arrival at the top, these two were waiting for me…

    Welcome to Iwatayama

    Now, there weren’t as many monkeys as I thought there might be. But monkeys in the wild are cool. I will have to follow Brett’s lead and go visit some serious monkey parks. What was cool about this was that you could feed the monkeys if you wanted. However feeding out in the open was a no-no, as on the whiff of food, you were likely to have a dozen monkeys tearing you apart. So it was all done from the safety of this…

    I want foooooooood!

    I decided not to feed them, leaving that to the kids. So on I went back down the hill to catch a train back to downtown Kyoto. My destination was one of the last temples on my list. Another one you ask? Well, this was Kinkakuji, or the golden pavillion. Can you guess why it is called that?

    Now that's some serious bling

    Pretty freakin’ impressive. While it was certainly an assault on the eye, I didn’t find this temple as awesome overall as some of the others I had been to. Part of the reason was no doubt this…

    Everyone say "チーズ!"

    This place was PACKED. It is clearly a temple for those on a limited time, maximum wow tour. It did make it a bit hard to slow down and enjoy however. But it did make you gasp then first laying eyes on it, no question.

    So what is this booty I spoke of? Well, I had a bit of a walk back to the train station. Meandering along I passed a supermarket. Now, having had no luck in all kinds of convenience stores for kit kats, it was time to raid supermarkets. So in I wandered. And there they stared at me…

    Finally!

    A bag of Aloe Yoghurt Kit Kats. A flavour I hadn’t eaten! Needless to say they were snapped up quick smart. And not having to savour each tiny morsel like the past, I tucked in to one.

    Aloe Yoghurt Kit Kat mini

    It was defintely Aloe and defintely Yoghut flavoured. Having had aloe drinks before they were clearly related. Had quite an aloe aftertaste too. I would defintely rate it quite highly in the taste department. Not so high in the wacky factor, but it was a start.

    * Note… I will probably do some separate entries for Kit Kat reviews. Yes, I’m that serious.

    I also tried another couple of supermarkets, but to no avail. I did however find this one and only in a Lawsons along the walk too…

    Green Tea variation?

    I think it is some kind of desert green tea thing, but can’t be sure. I haven’t eaten it yet. Since I have only found one, I might save it for a while. Can’t guarantee it will make it home though.

    So that gets you all up to date. More World Cup tonight. But time to get some food. Keep your fingers crossed for more Kit Kats. Cheerio folks.

  • Today I Crawled Through the Nostril of a Buddah

    … well, not an actual buddah, but a hole in a wooden column the same size as a buddah’s nostril. But more on that later.

    A break with the usual today… I am not watching World Cup right now. I am taking a breather before going out to wander Kyoto some more tonight, after spending the day in Nara, and then spending the last hour in a public bath house. Yes, I got naked in front of old Japanese men. I will get to that but spare you details.

    I'll have one of the deer in the window thanks

    So Nara. Just when you think things can’t get better along comes the next day. And while Himeji Castle will take some beating, Todaiji Temple in Nara comes close.

    The main part of my day was wandering the typical touristy path through the main sites of Nara. Lush parks, more temples and shrines, and deer. Lots of deer. Not afraid to sniff your pockets and chew on anything you might have. Locals sell deer biscuits but it is more fun to watch those people who buy them get mobbed by a dozen deer that get the whiff of the biscuits. While the signs tell you to be careful, I can’t imagine any of these deer would cause a fuss. They are cool though.

    Just telling ya who's boss mate

    The walk in parts was lined by hundreds of concrete lanterns that get lit each night. I can’t imagine how cool that must be.

    Follow the lanterns

    One of the awe inspiring sites was Nigatsu-do Hall, located on a hill overlooking Nara.

    Nigatsu-do Hall

    But really, it is just a teaser for arriving here…

    Matt, meet Todaiji Temple

    And I thought Himeji Castle was a big wooden structure. Holy crap, this was huge! The small people entering the base of the temple gives you an indication how big I am talking. Oh, and thanks to the lovely couple from Sydney for taking this snap.

    Approaching Todaiji is pretty amazing. You are dwarfed by it as you walk up, and I am not sure I could stop smiling. Reaching the entrance you are greeted by this big dude…

    Hey! Pleased to meet you! I'm Daibutsu.

    Daibutsu, Japan’s largest bronze buddah says hi as you walk in, and he’s pretty freakin’ big. Big Banana? Lame. Big Pineapple? Yawn. Big bronze Buddah? Awesome.

    So, we come to the nostril. In the temple is a hole in a wooden beam that is supposedly the size of Daibutsu’s nostril. Apparently those who can squeeze through the opening will be granted enlightenment in their next reincarnation. It is mainly a thing for kids given the size, but yes. You know what is coming. I had to give it a go, much to the amusement of kids in line. This picture gives a bit more perspective on the size…

    Lucky Daibutsu was having a clear nose day

    So my time came. The tough part was that it was more narrow than tall which made negotiating it quite difficult. I decided to lead with both arms stretched out, but made it difficult to pull myself through. Oh no, I thought, I won’t fit. But then I got my body at the right angle, found something to grab and slid my way though. Not particularly elegantly, but through. I am to be enlightened!

    The highlight though was the applause I got from the kids. I gotta say that was very funny and very cool.

    So I was done and wandered back to the train station. But then I spied it. Is that… a… Mos Burger? Glen, if you are reading this right now, you will be glad to know that I could not pass it up. So, knowing that there was an actual “mos burger” on the menu, that is what I asked for. And here you go.

    A Mos (with one 's') Burger

    I don’t really know what was on it, but it was pretty tasty. I was maybe a touch underwhelmed as several people had told me to seek out Mos Burger. But in many ways I think I would rather settle for a bowl of ramen. And sorry Glen, I couldn’t find any coasters?

    My only bummer in Nara today was coming across a big tourist group… from Melbourne. A bunch of dudes from a Melbourne private school were being what you would expect a bunch of 16 year old guys in a foreign country to be like. I spoke to a couple of the teachers and they seemed cool. And maybe it was more the contrast between boisterous tourist and respectful locals that made them appear so annoying. But for me it makes you check that your manners are the equal of your hosts.

    Anyway, getting back to the hostel I decided that tonight would be a good night for a stroll back in Gion. So what to do? Well, the time had come to try public bathing. Unfortunately no Onsen’s nearby (hot springs) just regular Sento’s (public baths with super hot water). But it was just across the street, and I was physically tired, so in I went. I can’t say my etiquette was all that good… not deliberately… I just didn’t quite have the method right. But I gotta say once I popped the clothes away, washed up, then jumped in, I was pretty relaxed. Pretty, pretty, pretty, pretty, relaxed.

    What helped I think was that before I went in I had one of these…

    8% booze for 140 yen. Oh yeah.

    The hot water and this made my brain slow right down to a halt. I just gave in and next thing I knew I had been in there like 45 minutes. The bath only had a couple of old dudes in it, so it wasn’t particularly intimidating… in fact it gave me the urge to seek out a real onsen when I can.

    And this is where I leave you. Time to wander for some food and see Kyoto all lit up. Until tomorrow! All going to plan it will be stories of bamboo forests and monkey parks.