More rain, more deer, more okonomyaki

By: muttler

Floating Torii (for now anyway)

Just when I thought it couldn’t get any wetter, I woke up this morning in Hiroshima. Yesterday was pretty damp, but today the rain was relentless. Oh well, what are you going to do? Get out there of course!

That's some low hanging cloud

Today was my last day in this fleeting visit to Hiroshima, so it was off to visit Miyajima Island and it’s famed floating torii gate. A quick train ride to Miyajimaguchi station and an even quicker ferry ride, and I was on the island. With umbrella and rain jacket armed, off I went.

First thing I guess is that the Torii isn’t floating as such. The tide helps play the illusion. Unfortunately for me high tide (and the true appearance of floating) was at 8 in the morning, which didn’t happen. So as I arrived the water was heading out, and the bottom was becoming clearly visible. But if that didn’t allow the perfect photo, it let me walk underneath it later when low tide was happening.

Sorry, not today Mt Misen

So I head out exploring the island before low tide arrived. My plan was originally to climb Mt  Misen, the tallest point on the island, and a good 1.5 hr hike. Alas, the persistent heavy rain meant that wasn’t going to happen. The low hanging clouds meant that it wasn’t going to be the greatest of views regardless (as a fellow hosteller confirmed to me later). So off I just wandered.

More temples in treetops

The island is made up of a number of small temples and shrines, that like Kyoto just pop up. But this time they are all buried in the woods of the island. Oh, and there is more deer. Just like Nara they just hang out and terrorise the visitors. Watching a poor lady have her scarf eaten was kinda funny I have to say (I wasn’t the only one watching and laughing).

It got to the point where I had to escape from the rain. And what better thing to do than… more Okonomyaki! I had to enjoy another Hiroshima special variant. The experience was not as special as last night, but it was tasty nonetheless. Oh, Templar… this is how they make it:

1. Make a REALLY thin circle of batter. I mean like thin crepe thin.

2. Put a ton of cabbage on top. Last night had bean shoots too which today didn’t. Put some bacon on it (yep, bacon)

3. Flip it over so the cabbage and bacon is on the grill. Squash, cook, squash, cook.

4. Pop some noodles (udon or soba) on the grill in a circle and let cook. Pop the batter and cabbage pancake on top. Squash.

5. Crack an egg and make it the same circle size as the pancake. Pop the batter, cabbage and noodle pancake on the egg (noodles against the egg). Squash some more

6. Flip over, paste with the magic sauce, and serve up! Yum.

After filling up on that goodness, the tide was a fair way out, so it was time to get wet some more and walk under the gate.

And you thought it was floating...

It is funny to think that 95% of photos of the torii are the magical floating photos, but that you requires perfect timing. If I want that I can buy a postcard… I got to walk underneath!

Having done that it was time to head back. Even though it was raining I did the long walk back from the train station to the hostel, weaving my way through a number of shopping arcades. Nothing too odd has jumped out at me yet, although one toy store I found made me want to buy half the stuff.

So farewell Hiroshima, I loved my visit even though you didn’t stop raining. You provided me with some spine-tingling moments as well as awesome okonmyaki and tasty kit kats. I will see if I can crack how to fold these paper cranes tonight and drop some off for me and Meagan and Ella and Jake before I head off tomorrow on an epic 5 1/2 hours of Train travel to Takayama. Speak to you next from the ancient town of sake 🙂


I am so full right now…

By: muttler

That's a lot of cranes

This morning I said goodbye to my home of the last 6 days and jumped on the Shinkansen again, this time to Hiroshima. I decided to get a fairly early start since 2 days is all I have planned to see Hiroshima as well as nearby Miyajima Island.

Today’s weather was in stark contrast to yesterday. Whereas yesterday was all sunshine, today was all clouds and constant rain. Oh well. At least it was still warm. I arrived into Hiroshima Station and legged it to my hostel to be for the next 2 nights. A bit smaller than Kyoto, but charming nonetheless.

All I did however was dump the backpack and head off into Hiroshima. The location of the hostel was literally 2 minues walk from the main reason people come to Hiroshima… the Peace Park and its associated sights. The rain only seemed to add to the atmosphere.


A number of memorials exist to 6th August 1945. The cenotaph and its flame house the names of all those that have died due to the events of that day, both at the time and also long after due to the lingering effects.

Children's Memorial

But the most compelling memorial in the park is that dedicated to Sadako Saskai and the children who perised. Sadako passed away of lieukemia almost a decade after the bombing, however during her sickness she folded over 1000 paper cranes, blessing each one with a wish for peace. Knowing that, and seeing the thousands more cranes that are continually left in her memory is moving to say the least.

A-Bomb Dome

The A-Bomb Dome is the most visual reminder of the impact. The city refused the urge to tear down the remains of this building to leave it as a permanent reminder of the horrors of the day, but also an urge to not let it happen again.

No witty comment here

But all of this doesn’t prepare you for the Peace Memorial Museum. The first level explains in great detail the events leading up to the day, both from the Japanese and the Allied perspecitves. But as you work your way up to the next level of the museum you are well and truly confronted with the real horror. I can’t say I was really ready.

Many photos show the impact of the day on not just the landscape but the people. But what kicks you in the guts are all the artifcats… burnt clothing, even some minor human remains. It is hard to say too much about it that can really indicate the sheer gravity of it all.

Hypercenter... quite low key actually

So it was time to get some fresh air again! Off it was to wander some more. In my wander just near the park I came across the hypercentre of the bomb… the exact location under where it detonated. Amazingly this is afforded just a small stone memorial, but it is still adorned with the paper cranes that permeate the park.

A not quite as impressive castle really

Heading around the main streets of Hiroshima, I came across the city castle. This was always going to be an odd one given that I assumed it would have been leveled in the blast (I was right). But in the essence of preserving history it was recreated. As such, while it is certainly pretty cool, it lacks the history (and scale of course) of something like Himeji.

Which brings me to the title of the blog. I was hungry. Damn hungry. And I knew that while in Hiroshima I had to sample the local version of Okonomyaki. What’s the difference? Well, here in Hiroshima they have a layer of noodles as a base. So in one of the side streets near the hostel I chanced upon a very small place that looked homely and inviting so in I went. And man was it inviting!

Seated at the grill I watched as my host cooked up a HUGE local-style okonomyaki. I have never seen so much cabbage, bean shoot, pork, onion and noodle packed together. And how was it? Well, I can’t understand why noodles aren’t the standard. It was great! It took all my eating prowess to get through it. Which is where things got funny. There were a handful of others in the restaurant/pub, including a couple of older guys I said hello to when I arrived. They seemed to have limited english but asked where I was from, so I told them and told them I was very happy to be here and I was having a great time.

As I got close to the end of my okonomyaki the hostess asked if I liked oysters. It seemed as though Hiroshima has a specialty for oysters too and the two gentlemen wanted to treat me to a sample. Who was I to say no? So I then proceeded to enjoy half a dozen lightly coated and grilled oysters with bacon (Hiroshima style too I believe), which my new friends would not share. They wouldn’t even accept a drink in return. So by the end of this meal, I was in a divine place. So very very full.

Bidding my host and new friends farewell, I arrive back at the hostel ready for some sleep. But not before I enjoy one of these…

Mmmmm... citrus

Mmmmm… orange. Yep, it tasted as you would expect it did. Tangy, orangy goodness. This was in a special “mail it” pack. It seems there are a few of these packs around Japan, so I have to keep my eyes peeled…


Farewell Kyoto

By: muttler

Dude, it's 31 degrees and you dress me up in this?

If it seems like each day I have packed in quite a crazy amount of stuff, well, you’d be right. Kyoto (and its surrounds) was the main destination on my trip that I knew I had a lot to see and do. Temples, Castles, Parks, Bamboo, Monkeys… a lot to get through in 6 days.

Well, today being my last day, and having pretty much checked the main things off my list, I decided to just chill. Now by chill I still donned the walking boots and headed out, but today with no real plan. It was the first cloudless day in Kyoto… 31 degrees and beautifully sunny. I couldn’t waste it! So I just decided to head off and re-experience some parts, as well as see what I could find for Ella and Jake (of course).

So today’s post is just a bit of a ramble about Kyoto as a whole, as I depart for Hiroshima tomorrow morning.

Back at Kiyomizu-dera

You could no doubt tell that I have loved Kyoto. The mix of city and tradition is pretty amazing. I have avoided the “city” side of things for the most part… shopping and bar hopping hasn’t been too high on my list of things to do. But I figured I have Tokyo to look forward to, so why not soak up ancient Japan?

So much detail everywhere

As a first introduction to Japan, I think I made the ideal choice too. City enough to start dealing with public transport and crowds, but small enough not to be too overwhelming and all crazy-like.

A nice way to start too to experience that there is really not that much english around. Sure you never go too wrong in train stations and major places, but I have been surprised how many times ordering food and things like that, where it was all being polite and pointing at pictures. But hey, I would have been kinda disappointed if that wasn’t the case.

So yes, the people have been lovely. Whether it is in a shop, on the train, or on the street, I have not seen anything other than a warm welcome or respect. I am sure I will miss the cheerful sound of “Irrashaimase!” when I get home.

This one is for you Damien and Anna

I know I will come back to Kyoto one day. Being here in summer, I am dying to see what winter is like. I think I have seen one too many postcards of temples and castles covered in snow…

So my favourite places? In no particular order:

– Himeji Castle (probably my number 1)

– Arashiyama Bamboo forest

– Wandering Nara

– Squeezing through the “nostril” in Todaiji Temple

See you again Kyoto I’m sure. Speak to you all from Hiroshima (assuming I have free wi-fi there too).


Bamboo, Monkeys, Bling and Booty

By: muttler

It's Hypnotizing...

Today was all about Bamboo, Monkeys, Bling, and as good fortune would have it, finally some Booty. I will leave you to ponder this.

When I left you all last night I was about to go out wandering Kyoto. It was an interesting experience. I have spoken a little about the juxtaposition of old and new Kyoto. It is certainly on show at night too, although the new tends to overpower the old.

Just in case you are under the impression that Kyoto is all this…

Geisha District at Night. No Geisha's to be seen 🙁

or this…

Feeling hungry?

then literally 5 minutes walk and you are here…

Now this is the Japan everyone knows!

It seems that half of Kyoto is out in downtown, eating and shopping. It wasn’t a surprise, but quite a contrast to the days vibe, at least where I have been anyway.

Gion in particular seemed to be the “entertainment” district. And by “entertainment” I do mean to put it in quotes, if you know what I mean (nudge nudge wink wink). I finally was surrounded by drunken Japanese businessmen! I didn’t have the nerve however to wander into any place, having no idea what I would be in for. NOTHING was in english, so I will leave some mysteries in tact. While going into a place like this could be cool…

Sure it's cute on the surface, but what lies underneath?

… sorry lads, not prepared to take the punt.

The rest of the night was more World Cup shenanigans with a bunch of folk from the hostel. We had a good array of nationalities last night and we were all happy to see South Africa win. Even the two French guys were resigned to the fact their team was crap.

So, to today. A low key kinda day. I had two main goals: the Arashiyama area and Kinkakuji Temple. Arashiyama is on the outskirts of Kyoto and is famed for one main thing… the bamboo forest. While in the area I visited Tenryuji Temple, which while very cool, I felt I was getting a bit templed out. So a respectful but quick wander led me to what I was after…

Wow, that's pretty green

The bamboo forest is quite spectacular. Rather than being a massive forest, it is a relatively small patch with a nice short path through. It was pretty quiet while I was there, so I got to experience some gentle swaying bamboo to myself. Quite an experience actually.

My other main focus of Arashiyama was a bit more of a hike. Literally. I only found out just before coming that Arashiyama has its very own Monkey Park. Oh, yeah. Monkeys! Iwatayama Monkey Park is at the top of the main hill overlooking Arashiyama and has about 200 wild monkeys roaming around up top. Hanging out with wild monkeys? Forget temples!

But when I say the top, I mean the top. I wasn’t quite ready for the 20 min hike up, especially in some sweltering humidity. But it was monkeys. So up I went. What made feel some pangs of excitement was this…

The First Rule of Monkey Club is...

Rules! Don’t stare at the monkeys? Ah, they are wild monkeys indeed. While they were clearly used to people, apparently they could still switch in the blink of an eye.

So on my arrival at the top, these two were waiting for me…

Welcome to Iwatayama

Now, there weren’t as many monkeys as I thought there might be. But monkeys in the wild are cool. I will have to follow Brett’s lead and go visit some serious monkey parks. What was cool about this was that you could feed the monkeys if you wanted. However feeding out in the open was a no-no, as on the whiff of food, you were likely to have a dozen monkeys tearing you apart. So it was all done from the safety of this…

I want foooooooood!

I decided not to feed them, leaving that to the kids. So on I went back down the hill to catch a train back to downtown Kyoto. My destination was one of the last temples on my list. Another one you ask? Well, this was Kinkakuji, or the golden pavillion. Can you guess why it is called that?

Now that's some serious bling

Pretty freakin’ impressive. While it was certainly an assault on the eye, I didn’t find this temple as awesome overall as some of the others I had been to. Part of the reason was no doubt this…

Everyone say "チーズ!"

This place was PACKED. It is clearly a temple for those on a limited time, maximum wow tour. It did make it a bit hard to slow down and enjoy however. But it did make you gasp then first laying eyes on it, no question.

So what is this booty I spoke of? Well, I had a bit of a walk back to the train station. Meandering along I passed a supermarket. Now, having had no luck in all kinds of convenience stores for kit kats, it was time to raid supermarkets. So in I wandered. And there they stared at me…


A bag of Aloe Yoghurt Kit Kats. A flavour I hadn’t eaten! Needless to say they were snapped up quick smart. And not having to savour each tiny morsel like the past, I tucked in to one.

Aloe Yoghurt Kit Kat mini

It was defintely Aloe and defintely Yoghut flavoured. Having had aloe drinks before they were clearly related. Had quite an aloe aftertaste too. I would defintely rate it quite highly in the taste department. Not so high in the wacky factor, but it was a start.

* Note… I will probably do some separate entries for Kit Kat reviews. Yes, I’m that serious.

I also tried another couple of supermarkets, but to no avail. I did however find this one and only in a Lawsons along the walk too…

Green Tea variation?

I think it is some kind of desert green tea thing, but can’t be sure. I haven’t eaten it yet. Since I have only found one, I might save it for a while. Can’t guarantee it will make it home though.

So that gets you all up to date. More World Cup tonight. But time to get some food. Keep your fingers crossed for more Kit Kats. Cheerio folks.


Today I Crawled Through the Nostril of a Buddah

By: muttler

… well, not an actual buddah, but a hole in a wooden column the same size as a buddah’s nostril. But more on that later.

A break with the usual today… I am not watching World Cup right now. I am taking a breather before going out to wander Kyoto some more tonight, after spending the day in Nara, and then spending the last hour in a public bath house. Yes, I got naked in front of old Japanese men. I will get to that but spare you details.

I'll have one of the deer in the window thanks

So Nara. Just when you think things can’t get better along comes the next day. And while Himeji Castle will take some beating, Todaiji Temple in Nara comes close.

The main part of my day was wandering the typical touristy path through the main sites of Nara. Lush parks, more temples and shrines, and deer. Lots of deer. Not afraid to sniff your pockets and chew on anything you might have. Locals sell deer biscuits but it is more fun to watch those people who buy them get mobbed by a dozen deer that get the whiff of the biscuits. While the signs tell you to be careful, I can’t imagine any of these deer would cause a fuss. They are cool though.

Just telling ya who's boss mate

The walk in parts was lined by hundreds of concrete lanterns that get lit each night. I can’t imagine how cool that must be.

Follow the lanterns

One of the awe inspiring sites was Nigatsu-do Hall, located on a hill overlooking Nara.

Nigatsu-do Hall

But really, it is just a teaser for arriving here…

Matt, meet Todaiji Temple

And I thought Himeji Castle was a big wooden structure. Holy crap, this was huge! The small people entering the base of the temple gives you an indication how big I am talking. Oh, and thanks to the lovely couple from Sydney for taking this snap.

Approaching Todaiji is pretty amazing. You are dwarfed by it as you walk up, and I am not sure I could stop smiling. Reaching the entrance you are greeted by this big dude…

Hey! Pleased to meet you! I'm Daibutsu.

Daibutsu, Japan’s largest bronze buddah says hi as you walk in, and he’s pretty freakin’ big. Big Banana? Lame. Big Pineapple? Yawn. Big bronze Buddah? Awesome.

So, we come to the nostril. In the temple is a hole in a wooden beam that is supposedly the size of Daibutsu’s nostril. Apparently those who can squeeze through the opening will be granted enlightenment in their next reincarnation. It is mainly a thing for kids given the size, but yes. You know what is coming. I had to give it a go, much to the amusement of kids in line. This picture gives a bit more perspective on the size…

Lucky Daibutsu was having a clear nose day

So my time came. The tough part was that it was more narrow than tall which made negotiating it quite difficult. I decided to lead with both arms stretched out, but made it difficult to pull myself through. Oh no, I thought, I won’t fit. But then I got my body at the right angle, found something to grab and slid my way though. Not particularly elegantly, but through. I am to be enlightened!

The highlight though was the applause I got from the kids. I gotta say that was very funny and very cool.

So I was done and wandered back to the train station. But then I spied it. Is that… a… Mos Burger? Glen, if you are reading this right now, you will be glad to know that I could not pass it up. So, knowing that there was an actual “mos burger” on the menu, that is what I asked for. And here you go.

A Mos (with one 's') Burger

I don’t really know what was on it, but it was pretty tasty. I was maybe a touch underwhelmed as several people had told me to seek out Mos Burger. But in many ways I think I would rather settle for a bowl of ramen. And sorry Glen, I couldn’t find any coasters?

My only bummer in Nara today was coming across a big tourist group… from Melbourne. A bunch of dudes from a Melbourne private school were being what you would expect a bunch of 16 year old guys in a foreign country to be like. I spoke to a couple of the teachers and they seemed cool. And maybe it was more the contrast between boisterous tourist and respectful locals that made them appear so annoying. But for me it makes you check that your manners are the equal of your hosts.

Anyway, getting back to the hostel I decided that tonight would be a good night for a stroll back in Gion. So what to do? Well, the time had come to try public bathing. Unfortunately no Onsen’s nearby (hot springs) just regular Sento’s (public baths with super hot water). But it was just across the street, and I was physically tired, so in I went. I can’t say my etiquette was all that good… not deliberately… I just didn’t quite have the method right. But I gotta say once I popped the clothes away, washed up, then jumped in, I was pretty relaxed. Pretty, pretty, pretty, pretty, relaxed.

What helped I think was that before I went in I had one of these…

8% booze for 140 yen. Oh yeah.

The hot water and this made my brain slow right down to a halt. I just gave in and next thing I knew I had been in there like 45 minutes. The bath only had a couple of old dudes in it, so it wasn’t particularly intimidating… in fact it gave me the urge to seek out a real onsen when I can.

And this is where I leave you. Time to wander for some food and see Kyoto all lit up. Until tomorrow! All going to plan it will be stories of bamboo forests and monkey parks.


For 5 dollars I got to be Musashi

By: muttler

Himeji Castle

So it seems the “type up the blog while watching world cup” is becoming the norm. The rain coming in of an evening kinda contributes, but so does being buggered.

Anyway, I almost cried with happiness twice today. Today, as the picture above gives away, I jumped on the shinkansen to Himeji to visit the famous castle. This was easily one of my most anticipated destinations. I was a bit concerned heading there as I knew that it had just started undergoing a massive 4 year restoration that meant the main tower was off limits. And I knew that as part of that, the main tower was being completely enclosed in a temporary structure (if you don’t believe me, check this out).

But the first pang of absolute joy, and the catalyst for the almost tears was catching my first glimpse of the amazing main tower as I got out of the train station in Himeji. I can’t tell you just how mind-blowingly awesome it was. And that awesome increased exponentially as I approached the castle grounds.

Now I feel I should explain the blog title, the first part anyway. The cost for me to get into the castle was 400 yen (a bit lower than usual as the main tower was closed due to the renovations). 400 freakin’ yen. Do you know how much that is? Like 5 bucks. 5 dollars to visit one of the most impressive things IN THE WHOLE WORLD. It makes me question how anyone can charge anything for entry fees at anything in Australia. 30 bucks Melbourne Aquarium? You have to be kidding.

What will blow your mind even more is this. Meet Sadao-san…


Sadao-san was my english speaking guide for the next couple of hours. MY guide. My VOLUNTEER guide. My 400 yen not only got me in to my samurai fueled image of heaven, but my own personal tour to boot. I can without any doubt say this was the best 5 dollars I have ever spent. Ever. But I digress again…

Sadao-san took me on an amazing tour of the complex. Because entry into the main tower was closed, he took me to all other kinds of nooks and crannys throughout the castle complex. I walked the board of the ancient maids quarters. But most awesomely I made my way up the windy interior paths to the foot of the main tower, all the way Sadao-san explaining what attackers would be thinking, and what the castle’s defenders would be doing. I was a ninja attacking the castle. I was Musashi, the ultimate samurai.

I know... I'm no Mifune

Thankfully, the scaffolding you see in the picture was not too intrusive, and my experience wasn’t really sullied too much. As Sadao-san quite rightly pointed out… all I have to do is come back in about 5 years.

Sadly, I waved goodbye to Sadao-san and the castle, and chilled out in nearby Koko-en garden to relax for a little bit.


While wandering the garden and the grounds of the castle, I had my first encounter with the “random person wanting to talk to you”. Thankfully it wasn’t a crazy old guy, but this nice lady taking her kids for a walk.

Everyone is just so darn nice!

She told me she was learning all about Himeji Castle and planned to take people around, so she wanted to know all about me and if I enjoyed the castle. I bumped into her again later in the day, so couldn’t resist the opportunity to get a photo. Even 2 year olds know how to pose for photos here.

The rest of my day was just wandering Himeji, taking the shinkansen back to Kyoto late in the afternoon, wandering a shopping mall I found on the other side of the train station (called Aeon Mall no less), ordering my first meal with no english involved whatsoever (all apologies and pointing and smiles), and finally crashing again.

But here are some random pictures from my travels that I know some of you will enjoy…

Firstly, as CC pointed out in her comment, Astro Boy does greet you outside Kyoto Station.

It's Mighty Atom!

Next, I found this advertised in Himeji. Unfortunately I was on my way to catch my train back to Kyoto, but dammit, I will find it and eat it (this one is for you Glen).

Everything is big in Himeji

I did eat another fish though, which Damien and Anna will appreciate. Not an ice cream, this one wasn’t great.

Gone fishing (part 2)

I didn’t find Bill Murray, but I found Leo. Still sporting that same stupid facial hair.

"Right side. And with intensity!"

But we all know who’s boss…

Who's the boss?

So, you may be asking? At the start of the post I said I almost cried twice with happiness? What was the second time? Well, I was in a supermarket in the shopping centre and found this. 1.5 litres of liquid gold. All for about 2 dollars.

Now THIS is a big-ass bottle of Calpis

Today I died and went to heaven.


Finding temples in the treetops

By: muttler

Kenin-Ji through the trees

Hi all. I didn’t realise I had so many avid readers. Thanks for the comments! I will try and make this entry a little less rambling story than the first.

Today was about two things: orienting myself properly with Kyoto, and checking out some of the main temples and sites. I knew the handful yesterday were just teasers for the main course of larger sites… and boy am I full right now.

Yesterday I hinted at the paradigm of new city (relatively) and old culture, but it was way more evident today as I did the pretty well defined tourist walk north through southern Higashiyama. I know some of you will be familiar with it, but for those not, it is where Kyoto meets the Higashiyama mountains. In some ways it’s like cliffs meeting the water… a radical change of scenery.

The main temple complex that greets you after negotiating some narrow and windy, packed, vendor laden streets, is Kiyomizu-dera. I gotta say, I wasn’t prepared for it. Where yesterday was a small temple complex buired in city streets, this was a massive multi-temple complex buried in the mountains, greeting you in the only way Kyoto knows how…

Kiyomizu-dera shrine entry

Oh, and just in case you are thinking maybe I am typing this from my house and using photos stolen off the web, here is a gratuitous self-portrait (looking a bit ragged already thanks to today’s fickle weather).

Kiyomizu-dera self-portrait

Sure, this entryway might seem pretty cool, but venture past and you get things like this in your face…

Kiyomizu-dera in the treetops

Paths went around temples, right to the forest, down to the ground, up to the treetops. It was all pretty awe inspiring.

More Kiyomizu-dera wonder

Over the course of the day, I visited numerous more temples of all varying shapes and sizes. Chion-in was my other highlight. Pretty much at the end of my days walking I ventured into the grounds of Chion-in and into the main temple, where like yesterday I came across a packed buddhist ceremony. Being tired and wanting to rest, I soaked up about half an hour of chanting and bell ringing. What did it mean? I have no idea, but I’d be lying if I didn’t say it was quite affecting.

The other magical part of my day was simply traversing the narrow streets between temples, those that form a beguiling link between the city and the temples. Most are lined with small restaurants or shops, none of which I found too gratuitously tourist oriented (apart from a small strip leading to Kiyomizu-dera). Red lanterns were displayed proudly in one street.

Raise the Red Lantern

They were cobblestone lined, with steep stairs leading up and down and around. Quite gorgeous. Except for this rabbit. He freaked me out.

Demonic Rabbit

One odd transition was on leaving Maruyama-koen gardens and finding myself in Gion. Gion is the geisha district and can either be thought of as home of an ancient art, or seedy entertainment district. By day it appears as at least part of the former, but by night I believe it might be a bit of the latter (if these signs lining the laneways are anything to go by… “Pick Up” and “Happy Zone” worry me in particular).

Gion "entertainment" district

True geisha’s still do exist in this part of town apparently, but spotting them is a rarity. As close as I came were these two in one of the streets leading up to Kiyomizu-dera. My spidey-senses told me they weren’t real geishas.

Real Geishas? Um, I don't think so.

So anyway what does the title of this post mean? Well, there were a number of temples I found simply my catching a glimpse of a temple roof in the trees. I have a LOT of photos of temples through trees (in a way they are my new ‘dolphin photos’ as I call these kinds of photos, like “look there’s a dolphin! take a photo! there’s another dolphin! take another photo!”), but I know that none do justice compared with catching an actual glimpse of a temple roof through some trees when you least expect it. But somehow it all feels like Kyoto though, a seamless mix of temples and city.

P.S Things I learnt today…

1. I have learned to thank the government for getting rid of tobacco advertising. I can’t unsee this image. Now you lot can’t unsee it. It’s everywhere here too.

Look away!

2. I have learned that the only thing better than beer I have never tried, like this, for 130 yen (about $1.70)…

Asahi Clear

… is big-ass cans of Calpis for 120 yen (about $1.50)

Big-ass Calpis

P.P.S This turned out to be kinda more rambling than the last post didn’t it?


It’s only 24 hours since I left Melbourne? Are you kidding?!

By: muttler

Well hello folk out there! My brain doesn’t know what is quite going on right now, but let me try and befuddle it a little bit.

As I type this I am enjoying fast free wi-fi in my hostel in Kyoto. I have decided to take a well earned couple of hours break before World Cup action fires up in the hostel bar. With Japan playing first, then Australia, I will either be wired or crash severely.

So you are probably asking “what’s your problem Matt?!”. Hey! No problem! Quite the opposite. I am buggered from sheer joy. I left Melbourne about 6pm last night (Friday). It is now about 6pm Saturday Japan time (only an hour out). So what I am about to tell you is all in 24 hours. Let’s backtrack.

Uneventful flights to Sydney then on to Tokyo. Uneventful in the good way in that I had a quiet person next to me, I got some sleep through the night, and my backpack was waiting for me on the carousel in Tokyo at about 6am.

It was then a quick change of a rail voucher for a rail pass and I was on my way to Kyoto.  The train swap at Shinagawa was the start of the “firsts”. I bought my first can of coffee out of a vending machine…

Black Gold from a Vending Machine

Black Gold from a Vending Machine

and I hopped on my first Shinkansen…

Shinkansen at Shinagawa

Alas it was bit early for beer and bento on the way to Kyoto, so that will have to wait for another day. The bullet train was fast, but I probably expected lightening. But still a hell of a better experience than Metro.

The scenery alternated between cities and towns, to fields. When I saw my first old dude on a bike riding through some fields I had a little smile to myself. In fact I think I was smiling all the way. I was in Japan alright.

With minute-perfect timing, I rocked in to Kyoto about lunch time… and proceeded to get lost for the first time. Well, not too lost but I knew I went out the wrong exit of the train station. What a crazy ass train station. But I’ll get back to that.

So on the right track it was off to the hostel, a quick 10 minute jaunt. As expected the welcome was warm (like the humid hot weather) and I dropped my gear off. Now, I COULD have taken a break. But, meh. Why? I may as well crash bad later. So a change of clothes and freshen up and I was off to get my bearings.

Close by was Shose-ien Gardens. What strikes me about Kyoto is how odd it is that gardens and temples just pop up in the middle of the city. I know it is a bit different on the outskirts, but it was nice to feel like I was in a city (quite foreign) but then have some buildings centuries old.

Anyway, the gardens were a nice was to relax and start to really soak it all in. Holy crap, I’m in Kyoto! Along with nice bridges etc…

Bridge in Shose-ien

… were signs that made me laugh.

Mind the Bees

Close by was my first temple, Higashi Honganji. As luck would have it some kind of buddhist ceremony was happening, so shoes off and on to the tatami for me for a breather and get in touch with any spiritual side that may be lurking in there (not sure there’s much there… maybe I’ll be converted). It was quite gorgeous to unwind to the smell of incense and sound of buddhists actually.

Higashi Honganji

From there it was another temple, this one a bit older, Nishi Honganji. After washing my hands from the mouth of the dragon, it was time to wander in. No ceremonies this time. In fact I was the only one in the main temple. Eerie and awesome.

Nishi Honganji dragon

By this time I realised I was starving. I had just been snacking the whole day. What to have! I decided to wander back to the train station to scope out the restaurants in the myriad shopping centers. Holy moly. Yes, I got lost again. Ironically I got lost in one called “The Cube”. Maybe that is where the inspiration for the puzzles in the movie Cube came from.

Anyway, after my usual indecisiveness I went with some okonomyaki. I need to take notes how they will vary as I travel. This one was quite fishy. Good though. I got some yakatori to go with it. Yum. Sorry, no photos.

It was time to wander back to the hostel to get some rest before world cup started, well, that kind of gets us right to this second. In between though I started my hunt… for Kit Kats. So far… empty handed 🙁

A few different convenience stores have proven fruitless. That’s OK. It’s just day one. I treated myself to some kind of ice cream though. Not sure what I ate, but it was that weird stale waver stuff around a fish shaped ice cream. Maybe green tea and red bean? I know it was definitely red bean in there.

Fishy Ice Cream

So there we go. Man, this has waffled on. But all this in 24 hours. In fact my first 12 hours in Japan. I loved today. People are awesome, the city looks great. And it only gets better and crazier.

I expect the entries might get a bit briefer from here. We’ll see what happens. Tomorrow I think is a big walk near the forest to check out some temples there and meet some deer. Nara, Himeji, bamboo forests and monkey parks to come. Oh, but it is World Cup tonight. Go Japan and go Aussie.

Sayonara (and well done if you actually made it this far… heaven knows I would have stopped reading ages ago).